My Shichon Daisy
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  • Breed Standards for Bichon and Shih Tzu
  • Hazards: Foods, Medications,Treats, Plants
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  • Links - extra resources not on pages
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  • Photography
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  • Recipes
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  • Training - Clicker
  • Training - Games
  • Training - Potty
  • Home
  • Contact & Search
  • Daisy's Blog
  • Choosing Breeder, Puppy, Vet, Babysitter
  • Puppy Tips
  • Artists, Beds, Bows, Clothes, Grooming, etc
  • Behaviors
  • Breed Standards for Bichon and Shih Tzu
  • Hazards: Foods, Medications,Treats, Plants
  • Hazards: Weather
  • Health
  • Health - Insurance & Financial Assistance
  • Links - extra resources not on pages
  • Miscellaneous Tips and Information
  • Miscellaneous II
  • Nutrition and Treats
  • Pet Friendly
  • Photos
  • Photography
  • Recall Alerts & Warnings
  • Recipes
  • Safety
  • Training
  • Training - Clicker
  • Training - Games
  • Training - Potty
Search by typing & pressing enter

YOUR CART

Artists, Bows, Beds, Clothes, Collars, Hats, Treats and Supplies for furbabies

Artists, Bows, Beds, Clothes, Collars, Hats, Treats and Supplies for Furbabies

Adore Custom Pet Beds
All About Elegance, LLC by Amy Vlasak
Angels Dream
Baby Pinxie Dog Bows on facebook
​Barbara Klubek clothes
Barbi Amatini custom sweaters and hats 
Bark! What's in your closet?
BB Pets (bb-pets.com, Designer Dog Clothing & Accessories)
Bella's Prissy Puppie Boutique on facebook
Bella's Wardrobe (.net)
Betty Boo Bows
BFF Pet Paintings
Bine's Handmade/misc shop
By CatiaCho - Art and design whimsy 
Canine Couture
Carol Hicks - dresses
CarolAnn's Creation's 
Carol Anne Kendall/ZK Hat Couture
Chicka-Bow-Wow / Totally Green & One of a Kind
Classy Doggie Designs by Linda Higgins
Cute As A Bug Boutique
Cynthia Dog Bows (on the web)
Daisy's Furbaby Fashions
Dakota's Dixie Duds
Destiny's boutique ( collectibles)
Deb Lane-Hinds (dresses and harnesses)
Diva Dog Designs
DocoArt (Pet figurines from photos)
Dog Dresses by Linda Higgins
Doggiebowties (.com) by Lynne (show bows)
Dogsrus2 by Carol Hicks
Doodlebugduds (https://www.etsy.com/shop/doodlebugduds?ref=search_shop_redirect)
Dore'e Couture Dog Designs
FurbabyFashion.com
Fursaces bows on ebay 
Glamour Dogs
Glamour-Pups Bowtique (and clothes) on facebook
Gracies Paw Prints on Etsy (Custom Dog & Cat Apparel)
Halters By Nikky
Isle for Dog
Jaimie Diaz Couture

Karen Dimaio - Artist
Kayliez Kloset Pet Boutique
KTW Wraps LLC

Lacy Marie's Bowtique
L'atelier63:: Dog & Cat Wear
Legowiska Dla Yorkow Legowiska (Pet Beds)
Lily's Creations by Tina Ortiz
Linda Higgins

Linda Lord, Artist Paint Your Waggin.
Little-Chi (collars)
Little Dog Fashion
Little Paws Apparel
Lola's Material World
Maggie's Dog Closet
Mary Domankevitz's top hats 
My Doggy Duds

Nane Bows
Natali Bows
One Stop Collar Shop
Patricia Raye Designs and Yorkies
Paws BoutiquePaw Royalty
Pawsitively K9
PC Dog Clothes

Pet Portraits and Wildlife Art by Karie-Ann
Poshdog
Preciously Adorned Designs by Patricia Burgess-Reinhold (bows, hats, and hairpieces) 
Pretty Pooches Canine Couture
Puppy Bumpers
Puppy Duds (Designed and created by BKB)
Pure Country Pet Boutique (.com) 
R & L Couture Designs
Ritas Dolly-Dog
Roxy's Bowtique

Sabine Tanis (Sunglass clips)
Sherrone Boudreau
Snoopy's Collars on facebook 
Sophia's Diva Closet (Sophia Kennedy) 

Specialized Bows for fashion pooch's
Stampin Cards on facebook
SugarspiceArt Canine Art
Sweeten Your World (.com)
Teddies The Little Dog Boutique
The Best of the Best, in Pet Clothing Designs
The Diva-Dog Bowtique
The Doggie Basket
The Doggie Diva Bowtique
The Yuppie Puppy Treats and Supplies (Gourmet all natural biscuits, all natural antibiotic free range free chicken jerky)

Tina White Art
Upsy Daisy.
Val's Diva Do's
Woofs and Ruffles Couture Dog Clothing
Wooflink (Cool Designer Dog Clothes & much more!)
Yorkie Fashion Fantasy Small dog clothes

They will give you a general time span the bows, clothes, etc should be ready. Allow more time during busy holidays and dogs shows. They are reay are really worth the wait.

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Bathing

How Often Should You Bathe Your Pet?
(Dr Karen Becker - Healthy Pets)

Healthy cats and dogs are not itchy, smelly, flaky or constantly trying to scratch or bite at their fur. If your pet is displaying any of these tell-tale signals, it’s a major sign that something is out of balance in their system.

When all systems in your pet’s body are humming along in balance, their skin, eyes, ears, and digestive system are protected by their immune substances (IgA). In other words, your dog and cat feel good.

In a healthy animal (dog, cat, or human) normal inhabitants of the skin coexist in harmony, each doing their jobs and living their lives in a symbiotic relationship.

If an animal’s immune system is under more stress than it can manage, this symbiotic relationship can fall out of balance andskin problems -- hot spots, rashes, yeast overgrowth and bacterial infections -- can result.

Conventional medical intervention includes antihistamines, antibiotics, and steroids. All of these medications modify and suppress the immune system, and although sometimes required, your goal should be to help your pet’s immune system work properly, not to suppress it.

With species-appropriate nutrition, appropriate bathing and proper exercise, many animals regain their health and thrive without drugs.

“Allergic” Skin Problems
Skin infections
 and hotspots are usually caused by the Staphylococcus bacteria that normally inhabit the skin. While generally harmless, if your pet’s skin is irritated and itchy, it’s a sign that something has gone wrong.-- such as there may not be enough of the immunoglobin IgA protecting the skin.

Though it may sound surprising, one common underlying cause of an IgA deficiency on the skin is over-utilization of IgA in the gut. This happens when things are not well balanced in your pet’s gastrointestinal tract, so the IgA is needed more there, and there’s not enough left over to protect the skin.

Antibiotics and other medications that decrease gastrointestinal permeability can all contribute to an imbalance in your pet’s gut, so if your animal has taken any such drugs I recommend you provide a source of beneficial bacteria, to “re-seed” the intestinal tract and bolster GI defenses.

Is Yeast Overgrowth Harming Your Pet?
Yeast also naturally inhabit your pet’s skin, but when the proper balance is disturbed they can multiply rapidly and cause skin and ear problems. You’ll know your dog or cat has yeast if he starts smelling like a corn chip (some think cheese popcorn).Yeast causes intense itching and can grow in localized areas -- causing a creamy white accumulation between toes -- in the ears, or can affect the whole body.

An overgrowth of yeast is a signal that your pet’s immune system is not functioning well, as well as an indication your pet needs a good probiotic.

Often, there is a dietary connection as well, so if you suspect yeast overgrowth it’s a good time to try and eliminate extra carbohydrates (corn, wheat, rice, soy) from your pet’s diet. You see, yeast need sugar (carbs) as an energy source and reducing your pet’s intake of unnecessary carbohydrates reduces the yeast’s “fuel.”

Symptoms of Skin Allergies in Your Pet

Skin allergies cause a variety of symptoms in animals, such as:

  • Fur may feel “sticky”
  • Lots of flakes on the skin despite the fact your pet feels greasy
  • Red spots with little white heads, which often have black areas around them
  • Red, inflamed skin covering large areas of the body
  • Your pet may act like his or her skin is crawling
Your dog might also lick her legs or chew her pads, and there may be inflamed spots between toes, in armpits and inner legs. “Hot Spots,” or localized moist skin infections, can seem to appear in an instant and can spread at an alarming rate. These oozing sores are extremely painful and can easily become infected.

If your pet’s immune system is highly reactive, environmental substances (ragweed, grass, pollen, mold) animals pick up just by walking outside can even provide enough irritating substances to cause a reaction.

Remember, animals don’t shower daily to remove these allergens and they don’t wear protective clothing and shoes to keep allergens at bay. The resulting allergic reaction is actually one reason why elderly animals and those in poor health often exude an unpleasant fragrance.

Common sense 101: Keep Skin Clean
If you have a rash, scab, infection, or injury to your skin, you don’t have much question about what to do -- you keep it clean! The same is true for dogs and cats. Your animals will feel better, smell better, and heal faster if their skin is kept clean. However, in the case of cats, they may not be happier -- bathing is not usually on their list of favorite activities!

Pets with Allergies Need Baths
!Why don’t you wash your animals more often? Because you have been told not to, or because it’s one more thing to add to your busy life. You may also have read that you will disturb the balance of your pet’s skin if you wash them too much, and their skin will get dried out.

The truth is, healthy animals may not need frequent bathing, and over-bathing with harsh shampoos can cause dry skin.

However, animals with skin problems often need baths several times a week in a medicated shampoo to reduce the bacterial load on their skin, reduce irritation and inflammation and provide a low cost, effective form of relief.

But each animal is different.

Bathe your pets when they need it, as in when they are stinky, dirty, greasy or irritated. I find many dogs in the height of the “allergy” season find significant relief by rinsing off their itchy parts daily or every other day. Doctors call this form of treatment “irrigation therapy” … I call it “rinsing off the allergens.”

Between baths, rinsing problem areas that are not infected can be extremely soothing as well. Cats especially appreciate this therapy! Localized inflamed areas may be washed without washing the whole animal, and this may help to stretch the interval between baths.

For example, if your dog has irritated and inflamed feet, you can devise a simple system to immerse one foot at a time in a bowl of cool water (see my Foot Soak article for more details). You can also soak itchy, irritated paws in a few inches of cool water in your bathtub or kitchen sink, depending on the size of your dog or cat.

Tips on Choosing Shampoos
From the wide variety of commercial pet shampoos available, choose as you do for yourself, trying to avoid toxic ingredients.

Also avoid shampoos that include oatmeal.
Oatmeal has a great reputation as a soothing ingredient, but in animals that have a problem with grain (which is 80 percent plus of allergic dogs!) they are likely to have problems with oatmeal shampoos. Grain-based shampoos may also provide a carbohydrate food source for unwanted yeast and bacteria. The only pets that truly benefit from oatmeal shampoos are those that have poison oak or poison ivy reactions.

“Healthy” shampoos that include essential oils should be used with caution on cats, but they are usually fine for dogs. There are a variety of animal herbal shampoos on the market that are non-drying and safe to use on a very regular basis (several times a week).

And remember, do NOT use human shampoos on pets ... our pH is different. Always test shampoo first on a very small area if you are concerned about your pet reacting.

Options for Rinses
There are several great options for soothing post-bath rinses that can reduce skin irritation and extend time between baths. All homemade rinses should not be used above the head and neck (do not get shampoo or rinses in ears or eyes).

If your dog is stinky (yeasty), consider a vinegar or lemon rinse:

Disinfecting Vinegar Rinse

  • Add 1 cup vinegar to 1 gallon water.
  • Pour over dog (from the neck down).
  • Rub into skin and towel dry.
  • Do not rinse off.
Deodorizing Lemon Rinse*

  • Cut one lemon in thin slices and boil in one quart water for 10 minutes.
  • Cover and let stand for 3 hours until cool.
  • After shampooing, pour solution over your dog (from the neck down) and massage into skin.
  • Avoid eyes. Towel dry. Do not rinse off.
*Applying lemon rinse to dark-coated dogs can lighten their hair color if they spend lots of time in the sun. This is not a health hazard, but important to note.

If your dog or cat is prone to hotspots, skin infections or pimples, try this rinse:

Povadone Iodine Rinse*

  • Add 1 cup povadone iodine (also called “Betadine” or 1% iodine solution from local pharmacies) to 1 gallon rinse water.
  • Pour over pet from the neck down, towel dry and do not rinse off.
*This solution is iced tea color and will turn white dogs and cats off white. This is not a health hazard, but important to note.

If your dog or cat is restless or irritated from generalized itchiness, try this rinse:

Herbal Tea Rinse

  • Add 5 green, chamomile or Tulsi tea bags to 2 quarts very hot water, steep until water is cool (I recommend 3 hours to allow for the maximum amount of polyphenols to exit the teabag and enter the water).
  • Remove tea bags and pour over pet from the neck down.
  • Massage into skin and do not rinse.
  • You can also refrigerate used tea bags for a soothing topical poultice for hotspots or rashes.
Critical Points for Successful and Pleasant Bath Time
  • Wash thoroughly! Use comfortably warm water, not too hot. On very hot days, many dogs enjoy cool water, which can also reduce inflammation and irritation. Many dogs look forward to a cool hose bath in the front yard on hot, humid days.

    Some pet owners have asked me if it’s okay to bathe their dog using a garden hose, since some hoses may contain lead. I believe as long as your water source is healthy, bathing your pet with a hose in the summer is a fine option. Wet your dog completely and consider pre-diluting your shampoo 50:50 with water to help spread it more easily over your dog.

    Dogs with water-repellent coats (Labradors, poodles, retrievers, and Portuguese Water Dogs) are sometimes hard to get really wet, so diluted shampoo makes the job easier.


  • Be gentle! Keep soap out of eyes and ears. Irritated skin is delicate and easily injured. Animals will be worried that you are going to cause them pain -- do your best to keep bath time fun and stress-free. Hot spots in particular are exquisitely painful, so consider gently blotting sensitive areas with a shampoo-moistened sponge. Remember to wash paws and toes well.

  • Rinse, and rinse, and rinse! Soap left on skin is very irritating. If you choose to use one of my homemade soothing rinses, do it while in the tub.

  • Drying and trimming. Wring out as much water as you can before towel drying. Some coats air-dry very nicely, others require work. Human hair dryers are not appropriate unless used with a “NO HEAT” setting! Allow some distance between the dryer and the animal. Trim back your pet’s fur around any sores or scabby areas to allow air to get to the skin and to help these areas dry faster.

    Stay away from “hot spots” with the dryer. Of course professional grooming is sometimes needed. Take your herbal shampoo and rinse to the groomer and ask them to please use them on your pet. Ask the groomer to not use any fragrances or sprays on your allergic pet.

    Some animals benefit from a close cut during the summer. This makes keeping an eye on skin much easier, but remember hair is a great insulator from the sun directly contacting the skin. Although shaving dogs down will allow you to see what’s going on underneath all that hair, it also causes changes in their ability to thermo-regulate and allows allergens closer contact to their sensitive skin.

    By taking the time to properly bathe your pet, engage him in regular exercise and feed him a high-quality, species-appropriate diet, it’s very likely that his skin problems will clear up naturally ... and your pet will be itch-free in no time!

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Bows

Bow placement & Training


Val's Diva Do's Bow Placement
http://valsdivados.com/dog_bows_placement.html
Val's Diva Do's Bow Training
shttp://valsdivados.com/puppy_bows_puppy_training.html
Puppy & Dog Bow Training Tips
(Val's Diva Dos)

Puppies are full of energy and don't take a liking to having their hair being pulled on so hopefully thes tips will help you getting started in making it easier to get started with bow training.

First of all, the best way to get started would be to use the bows made with a tiny alligator clip. They are the tightest clip that I have and will hold in just about any kind of hair and any length of hair. They are easy to attach, you would just grab a little patch of hair from the head right over the eyes and attach it to the hair as close as you can to the scalp without pinching the skin.
You might find that when you first do this to do it when the puppy is resting  at first so she/he will be more still for you.. Always try to talk in a soothing voice while attaching the bow and follow up with a treat so they will know its a good thing to get a bow. Always remove the bow if your not going to be around the puppy for a while so that the puppy doesn't get it out and chew on it.

When the puppy's hair is longer, you will want to start making a topknot with a band then placing the clip in the hair right in front of the band. You can continueusing the alligator clips or you can even use the french clip or the flat clips at this point which are much easier for you to open and close and work better on larger bows. 

When the puppies hair gets longer and your ready to start making your banded topknots use these tips.

Grab a good size parch of hair from the top of the hair using a brush to part it off.
Twist at the base slightly then wrap the band around as many times as you can so you get a tight hold.

Once you have the band wrapped, look at your dogs eyes. If they are slanted or you see white from the top of their eyes, the topknot is too tight. Loosen it up a bit by pulling the hair from under the band loose a little bit. 
Place the barrette from the bow right in front of the band now in the hair that is pulled into the band.

Change the topknot band every day by snipping it out with a small pair of scissors being careful not to snip any hair. If you leave the same band in day after day, the hair will get tangled around the band so when you take it out it will break the hair and break down the topknot eventually where it is much thinner and not as full.

I recommend the ouchless topknot bands that I sell on my "extra barrettes and bands" category for less tangling and breakage. 

If you plan on using bows with bands, try my easy double topknot method for the best method for not breaking the bands on your bows and for less hair breakage  than twisting the bands from the bows onto the topknots. This method will work on dogs who have longer hair for topknots. (see image on my Tips/Dog Bow Placement page) 

For dog bow sizing, please see my other page "Dog Bow Sizing" 

VIDEO ON UTUBE ON HOW TO PUT DOG BOWS IN USING A TOOL 

Not recommended for Yorkies or Maltese or shih-tzu. The best method for yorkie   maltese and shih-tzu are banded topknots and barrettes

This is a better method for poodle and cocker spaniel ears.

 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eV5D5UwhR5o


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Bow - care

Doggie Bow Ties Show Dog Bows
(Lynne McGuire)
 
Save A Dog Bow Tip: 
Crystal embellished show dog bows are all the rage right now. Perhaps you own a few? Have your crystal show dog bows become less sparkly or dull with use? Crystals on a show dog bow are easily dulled with hairsprays and skin oils from touching them. You can easily clean your crystal show dog bows to refresh them and make the crystal bling and sparkle. Here is how to do it: Get a clean q-tip swab and dip it into rubbing alcohol. Blot off the excess alcohol so that the swab is not dripping or “juicy”. Now carefully rub the q-tip across each crystal on your dog bow to clean off the cloudiness. As you rub the q-tip on each crystal do not push so hard that the alcohol runs onto the satin. You just want to clean the top of the hard stone, not drench it. You can also clean the crystal centers on your dog bows with alcohol as these get dusty and dull with use. Let the crystal air dry and your show dog bow will again be sparkly and clean. 
Like my page to receive more Save A Dog Bow tips in the future.

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Bow Sizing

Dog bows for Shichons.
If using two bows, use 3/8"; if one bow, use 5/8" for best results.

 Lynn McGuire/Doggiebowties.com
What Size Dog Bow?: "Fun" Dog Bow Sizing Help
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesDogBowSizing.htm

What Size Show Dog Bows?: Show Bows Sizing Help
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesDogShowBowSizing.htm

 What size dog bow do I need?
(Val's Diva Do's  .com)

FOR  YORKIE
  • YORKIE TEACUP OR YORKIE PUPPY 2-5 POUNDS XXX-SM 3/8 SINGLE/DOUBLE LOOP DOG BOWS 
  • MEDIUM SIZE YORKIE 4-8 POUNDS 5/8 SINGLE LOOPS DOG BOWS
  • LARGE SIZE YORKIE OVER 8 POUNDS 5/8 DOUBLE LOOPS OR 7/8 DOUBLE LOOPS DOG BOWS
FOR SHIH-TZU
  • SHIH-TZU PUPPY 2-5 POUNDS... 3/8 X 7/8 OR 5/8 X 1 SINGLE LOOPS DOG BOWS
  • SHIH-TZU PRE-ADULT 5-9 POUNDS... 5/8 X 1 1/4 DOUBLE LOOPS & REGULAR OR REGULAR SIZE CURLY KORKIE DOG BOWS
  • SHIH-TZU ADULT 10 POUNDS AND UP... 7/8 DOUBLE LOOPS & REGULAR SIZE OR CELUXE SIZE CURLY KORKIES
  • FOR SHIH-TZU PIGTAILS, 3/8 X 7/8" DOG BOW PAIRS OR 5/8 X 1" DOG BOW PAIRS OR REGULAR SIZE KORKIE PAIRS

FOR MALTESE
  •  MALTESE PUPPY OR TEACUP 2-5 POUNDS... XXX-SM 3/8 SINGLE OR DOUBLE LOOP DOG BOWS,  PIGTAIL PAIRS 3/8 X 1/2" DOG BOW PAIRS
  • MALTESE OVER 5 POUNDS... 5/8 X 1 1/4 SINGLE OR DOUBLE LOOP DOG BOWS, 3/8 X1/2" DOG BOW PAIRS FOR PIGTAILS
  • MALTESE OVER 10 POUNDS... 5/8 X 1 1/4 DOUBLE LOOPS OR 3/8 X 7/8" PAIRS FOR PIGTAILS
 FOR POODLE
  • PUPPY OR TEACUPS POODLE 2-5 POUNDS... XXX-SM 3/8 X 7/8 SINGLE LOOP DOG BOW PAIRS OR TINY KORKIE PAIRS
  • 4-8 POUNDS POODLE... 3/8 X 7/8 SINGLE LOOPS OR 5/8 X 1 SINGLE LOOP DOG BOW PAIRS, OR REGULAR SIZE KORKIE PAIRS 
  • 8 POUNDS + POODLE...YOU CAN PUT MOST ANY SIZE DOG BOWS IN THEIR HAIR INCLUDING FULL SIZE TULLE AND KORKIE PAIRS

Bow and Grooming tips

Doggy Bow Ties  (by Lynne McGuire)

1.  All About Bands and Topknots
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesAboutBandsandTopknots.htm

2.  How To Make Simple Casual Shih Tzu Topknot
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesSimpleCasualTopknot.htm

3.  How To Make a Shih Tzu Show Topknot Like the        Pros
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesShowTopknots.htm

4.  How To Band A Shih Tzu In Maintenance Topknots
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesMaintenanceBandingTopknots.htm

5.  Shih Tzu Cut Down: Step By Step
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesShihTzuCutDown.htm

6.  ShihTzu Cut Down II: Step By Step
http://doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesShihTzuCutDownII.htm

7.  Grooming Your Shih Tzu Puppy a Bath
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesGrooming.htm

8.  Grooming your Shih Tzu: Give Your Shih Tzu Puppy a Bath
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesShihTzuPuppyBath.htm

9.  Shih Tzu Grooming Tips: Clipping the Nose Hair
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesShihTzuGroomingTips.htm

10. Dog Bows and The Power of Color by Doggie Bow Ties
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesThePowerofColor.htm

11. Save a Dog Bow: Bow Care and Rejuvenation
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesSaveABow.htm

12. What Size Dog Bow?: "Fun" Dog Bow Sizing Help
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesDogBowSizing.htm

13. What Size Show Dog Bows?: Show Bows Sizing Help
http://www.doggiebowties.com/DoggieBowTiesDogShowBowSizing.htm

Bows - ktw wraps

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http://www.knotlesshairwrap.com/dog-hair-accessories-products.html
Your #1 source for quality dog hair accessories!

Welcome to KTW Wraps LLC where we take pride in our affordable hair accessories such as our quality Knotless Hair Wrap. It will transform the way you tie yours and your pet’s hair up to keep it off your face.

Do you have long hair that you find hard to keep away from your and your pet’s face? Are you tired of using the traditional bands that creates many knots that end up damaging your hair? Is your pet experiencing the same problem? Do you want to put an end to all that? Our patent pending product is unlike any of the conventional bands that exist; the tape is capable of sticking to itself and nothing else.

Whether you want to keep hair off your face or use it in your dog's hair to keep it out of her eyes and food, our dog hair accessories can help you do so, without causing pain; which is often experienced if you use conventional hair bands. Knotless Hair Wrap is a revolutionary product that does not tear, pull, knot or damage the hair. It is even durable enough to last for up to a week without needing replacement.

Whether you are going swimming or are engaging in other activities, the Knotless Hair Wrap works perfectly in keeping your hair firmly in place without damaging it. It is very easy to wrap hair using this revolutionary product. It will not leave your hair in a mess, thanks to its ability to remain in place for a long period of time without slipping or coming off. We have also learned kids prefer it over traditional bands because it does not hurts when putting it up or taking it out.

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Knotless Hair Wrap
(https://www.facebook.com/KTWWraps)

Instructions for using a bow with Knotless Hair Wrap. 

Step 1: Begin by wrapping most of your piece of Knotless Hair Wrap around the topknot but leave the final piece unattached. Feed the rubber band of the bow around your hemostats.

Step 2: Clip your hemostats to the end of the wrap.

Step 3: Slide the bow from the hemostats on to the end of the rap.

Step 4: Finish wrapping the wrap but be sure that the bow will be on the front of the topknot.

Step 5: Enjoy protecting your dogs hair by using Knotless Hair Wrap and still have cute bows.
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Detanglers
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Groomers Groom and Detangle from Pets at Home. Spray on the matt wait a couple of minutes and the comb slides straight through. No more teasing or snipping anymore. 

 Yorkie Splash and Shine, it takes the tangles out." 

How To Choose A Safe Shampoo
(Laura Boston - Dogs Naturally)


⇒ Regular grooming can be an important part of keeping your dog healthy.

⇒ Regular brushing will help spread the natural oils throughout your dog’s coat.

⇒ Regular bathing will remove dead skin cells, excess sebum and will help control
dust mites and allergens.

Bathing your dog once a month is a great idea!

Choosing a chemical-free shampoo is essential.  Reading the label is important because many products state they contain natural or organic ingredients but still contain toxic chemicals.

Shampoo Ingredients to Avoid
http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/how-to-choose-a-safe-shampoo/

This list just gives you a snippet of information on harmful ingredients in dog shampoos. It also applies to the ingredient list on your own shampoo and personal skin care products. Don’t believe the marketing hype. Read and understand the labels and think for yourself.  The terms “natural” and “organic” really mean just that. Going back to nature will improve the health of our pets, ourselves and our planet.

To find out how to pick out a natural shampoo that is good for your dog, please click here: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/keeping-bath-time-safe-for-your-dog/

Brushing/Combing

When to Use a Dog Brush or a Dog Comb
(Puppy Dog Web)

A dog brush is a must in your dog grooming equipment. The dog brush or comb should be used regularly, according to the hair length of your dog. Proper and regular grooming will result in a healthy, good looking coat.

The Benefits of Regular Brushing

Using a dog brush on a regular basis will remove loose hair, tangles and other things that might be stuck in your dog’s coat. By brushing you will spread the natural oils produced by the dog’s skin, giving a shiny-coat look.

Brushing for Short Haired Dogs

The short coated dogs will need gentle brushes with rounded and polished tips. These are also recommended for dogs with sensitive skin. Short haired dogs don’t need as much grooming as long haired dogs, but a 2 to 3 times per week brushing is recommended so as to spread the skin’s natural oils on the coat. A bristle brush can be used everyday to remove the dust or dirt.

Brushing for Medium Size Haired Canines

Medium size haired dogs will need medium sized brushes. A pin brush can clean the dirt in your dog’s coat and do a good job in spreading the natural oils. A groom brush is ideal for medium size haired canines and can be used during bath time. Brush your dog at least 3 times per week for a clean and healthy appearance.

Brushing for Long Haired Dogs

Long haired dogs will be happy with a slicker brush. This brush has gentle wire pins that will be able to get rid of all the things that are stuck in your dog’s coat. The pins should have variable stiffness—all depending on the thickness of your dog’s coat. A really thick coat needs the stiffest pins.

A slicker brush is also recommended for curly haired dogs. Curly haired dogs may be brushed with a pin brush which can easily separate and untangle the hair. Make sure the pins are polished.

Wiry haired dogs should be brushed with a porcupine brush.

The frequency of the brushing may be once a day, if you have the time and at least 5 times per week. A long coat can accumulate a lot of dirt, especially if your dog spends time outdoors.

Combs for Canine Coat

Combs may be used to groom your dog. There are numerous combs available: dematting combs, shedding combs or rakes. These break up the matting fur or to remove loose hair.

Remember to get a widely spaced comb for a long haired or a double coated dog.

However, combs may be dangerous as they have sharp teeth and may irritate your pet’s skin. You can combine using brushes on a daily basis and dematting combs for special needs.


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Grooming

Dog Grooming for Beginners
(Puppy Dog Web)

Supplies

Your grooming kit should include:

  • a brush suitable for your dog's coat
  • a grooming comb for removing undercoat and mats
  • a pair of grooming scissors
  • shampoo (oatmeal if your dog's skin is red from allergies)
  • nail trimmers sized appropriately for your dog
  • a toothbrush and canine
  • toothpaste
  • cotton balls
  • treats
Bathing

Your dog should be bathed once every month or two. If you don't bathe enough, your dog's coat will be dull and often matted. You will see dirt and have black fingers after petting him. However, if you bathe too often, your dog's coat doesn't generate natural oils that prevent dry skin.

Brush your dog prior to bathing him to loosen dead skin and dirt. Rinse your pet with warm water, using a spray nozzle, if you have one, or a cup. Avoid using too much water around the face and put cotton balls in your dog's ears. Apply shampoo, using as little as possible. Start with the head and work toward the tail but avoid applying around the eyes, nose and mouth. Don't forget the feet, rectum and under the chin. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a towel or hair dryeron cool or warm setting (not hot).

Trimming Nails

It's often best to trim your dog's nails after a bath because they are softer and, thus, easier to cut. You should trim his nails once a month.

To trim your dog's nails, hold the nail firmly at its base and trim only little bits at a time. Stop at the point where the nail begins to curve downward or when you see black or pink tissue. Use treats to make it a more positive experience. If this process stresses him out, do only one nail a day or only one foot a day. Move at your dog's pace.

Cleaning Ears

Properly cleaning your dog's ears can reduce risk of ear infections, which can cause pain and discomfort as well as lead to permanent hearing loss. You should do this every couple of weeks. If there is any red or black skin or a foul odor, you should consult your veterinarian.

To clean his ears, moisten a cotton ball with warm water, mineral oil or a dog ear cleaner and clean the opening to the canal and flaps. Do not clean into the ear canal.

Brushing Teeth

You should brush your dog's teeth daily but a minimum of twice per week. There are many brands of canine toothbrushes and toothpastes available. Do not use human toothpaste as it is not healthy for dogs.

Desensitize your dog to teeth brushing by letting them lick the toothbrush and starting them slowly. Hold your dog's lips up firmly, release and then give a treat. Once your dog will tolerate handling, add the toothbrush.

Grooming is more fun if you and your pet enjoy it, so make sure to use treats and move at your dog's pace. Since it must be done, do what you can to make it pleasurable for your dog.

Grooming Tips For a Happy Pooch
(Ron Miller - Dogington Post)

There are many reasons why keeping your dog well groomed is a good idea. First among these is the dog will feel better if he or she does not look like a shaggy wild thing covered in matted hair, and full of fleas and ticks., And, can walk or run easily because their toe nails are trimmed. The great thing about keeping your dog looking great is this is something the owner can easily do, or have a groomer perform for a modest amount of money. For our dog groomingtips for a happy pooch we will go over the simple things you can do at home to keep Bella looking great and feeling good.

Canines will do a fair amount of keeping themselves groomed. This is accomplished by licking, scratching, and shaking but this only goes so far. Now is when we need to step in and take over.

First on the list of our dog grooming tips for a happy pooch covers brushing your dog daily. This is especially important for long hair dogs that often end up with matted hair. Regular brushing of the fur will prevent the buildup of clumps of matted hair. These matted areas are bothersome to the dog, and if the dog can get to the spot they will scratch it to the point of pulling the hair out, or causing sores.

If this happens, we now have bleeding skin and open abrasions which are perfect for infection and invasion by tick, flea, and mite larva.

While brushing, look for fleas and ticks. If there are a lot, then a flea dip may be called for. You can also shampoo the dog with flea/tick shampoo and then treat with a topical medication to prevent further problems.

Clip the toenails and don’t forget to also clip the dew claws. A dog with long nails cannot walk or run properly because they are basically making ground contact with their long toenails. This will lead to joint and foot problems if left in this condition.

Just like humans, our dogs need their teeth brushed daily. Use toothpaste formulated for dogs that thoroughly cleans his teeth and gums. Use toothbrushes made for dogs teeth. These special brushes, along with the toothpaste, are available at pet supply stores.

In general, don’t use human toothpaste – some of them have ingredients that are toxic to dogs.

Clean the ears with cotton balls slightly damped with lukewarm water and then dry. Once the ears have been cleaned and dried, apply ear mite medication if you see signs of dark smelly dirt on the cotton balls.

Try our simple dog grooming tips for a happy pooch and rest easy as you know your loved doggy is feeling good!

Learn How to Get the Best Results From Your Dog Groomer
(KIM CAMPBELL THORNTON | Vetstreet)


While your veterinarian will always be your BFF when it comes to caring for your dog, your groomer should be next on the best friends list. A great groomer does more than keep your dog clean and presentable — he or she can also help you keep parasites at bay, inform you of potential ear infections, and alert you to the presence of lumps and bumps that should be checked.

As with any good relationship, communication is key to keeping your pet at her prettiest. We talked to long-time groomer Barbara Cole Miller of San Juan Capistrano, California, for her tips on some common grooming situations, including what to do if you’re unhappy with your pet’s do and whether and how much to tip. We also rounded up some common grooming lingo to help you better describe what you want and understand what the groomer is suggesting. 


Express YourselfWhen you meet with a groomer for the first time, start with basic details, like how old your dog is — puppies and senior dogs can have different grooming needs. Explain exactly why you’re there and what you need. Was your dog skunked? Has he been rolling in mud? Or does he just need a bath and a haircut?

In addition, if your dog has health issues that could affect grooming, be as upfront about those as possible. Is your dog a senior who might not be able to stand while nails are being clipped? Does your dog have epilepsy? Is your dog on a drug that causes frequent urination? Let the groomer know so she can be prepared for any problems. If she knows your dog has special needs, she can make allowances for the condition, such as providing support for him while his nails are being done or taking him out to potty on a schedule so he doesn’t have an accident after he has just been bathed and trimmed.

In addition to sharing background information and special concerns, be specific about how you want your dogto look after grooming. Don’t just say “a short clip,” Miller says. “Either clearly demonstrate using your thumb and forefinger or use terms like ‘half off,’ ‘only trim up the edges’ or ‘very short like a Lab.’ You and the groomer should be on the same page before you leave.” The best way to convey what you're asking for may be to show a picture. The groomer can then advise you whether that particular style is appropriate for your dog’s coat.

And don't hesitate to say what you don’t want. Owners of Cavalier King Charles Spaniels often go into shock when they pick up their dogs and find that groomers have given their pups a Cocker trim. If the fur on your dog’s paws is supposed to resemble a dust mop, be sure the groomer knows that you don’t want it trimmed short — or, conversely, that you’re OK with having your dog’s coat trimmed short for easier care. 

Grooming Etiquette  
A bad haircut can be a bummer — whether it's your hair or your dog's. Alert the groomer or salon owner immediately if you're not pleased with your dog's look. If a correction can be made, they should offer to do so right away. If that’s not possible, you should be able to schedule a “repair” appointment ASAP. But be fair: If the problem occured because you weren’t specific or clear in describing what you wanted, you shouldn’t expect a free fix.

You may find that you're not just displeased with one particular cut but are unhappy with the groomer; in this case, don't hesitate to try someone new. It can feel like cheating, especially if you stay at the same salon, but business is business, and there’s nothing wrong with requesting a different groomer, whatever your reason. “If you feel funny about doing so, you might want to explain your switch to the owner,” Miller says. “If you’re switching from the owner to someone else, you should just let him or her know that you’ve observed groomed dogs done by the employee and want to see how your dog will look.”

When the groomer does a good job, be sure to thank her — and consider offering a tip. We're used to tipping for services at hair and nail salons, but it can be confusing to know whether you should also tip your dog’s groomer. A tip is a thank you for service well done, but it is not a requirement — sometimes it's all you can do to afford the cost of the grooming. “Tip if you can, if you received good service in a reasonable time frame, and your pet tells you it was fun to be there,” Miller advises. If you do choose to tip, the typical amount is 15 to 20 percent of the total or $5 per dog. 


Speaking the LanguageKnowing the terms for certain services can help ensure that you get what you want. Here are a few that may come in handy.

All-over cut: The dog's fur is trimmed to the same length over the entire body, although the hair on the head, ears and tail may be left longer.

Lamb cut: Hair on the body is trimmed to the desired length, with the legs left fluffy, scissored neatly to blend into the body hair. This style is often seen on Bichons, Poodles, Schnauzers and Shih Tzus.

Lion trim: The front end has a mane of hair while the rear is clipped close to the skin. This is frequently done for dogs who are heavily matted or for certain breeds such as the Lowchen or Portuguese Water Dog.

Potty path or sanitary trim (sani for short): Shaving the area around the anus, vulva and inside of the hind legs to prevent urine or feces from staining or getting caught in the hair.

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Grooming - anxiety

5 Ways to Soothe Your Dog's Grooming Anxiety
(MIKKEL BECKER | Vetstreet)

My childhood dog, a Wire Fox Terrier named Scooter, was terrified of the groomer. Her anxiety started on the drive over and continued through her entire grooming session. At every appointment, she showed signs of anxiousness, including panting, whining, salivating, trembling and even becoming physically ill. When it was over, she looked great — a clean coat and a precise cut — but she was exhausted and traumatized.

Not all dogs are afraid of the groomer, but, like Scooter, many are. Their responses can vary from mild anxiety to full-blown panic attacks.

No matter how your dog’s fear manifests itself, it is important to take preventive measures to address his anxiety before it escalates into aggression. Here are my top tips for reducing the fear factor at the groomer.

Turn Grooming from Torture into TreatTake the stress out of the ride. Car rides can provoke anxiety; a dog who arrives at the groomer already stressed out and anxious can be an extra challenge. There are a couple of reasons your dog may dislike the car. He may be anxious about the ride itself or the anticipated destination — like the groomer. Counter conditioning can help ease your dog’s fear and increase his enjoyment of riding in the car. His anxiety and discomfort may also be related to motion sickness. Talk to your veterinarian to see if an antinausea medication may be helpful.

Get your dog used to being handled. Grooming often includes handling of sensitive areas, including the muzzle, eyes, ears, paws, tail, rear and groin. Training can help your dog remain relaxed with different types of touching, even in sensitive spots. Work with your dog at home to get him used to being handled before you take him to the groomer. Pair a predictor word, like “ears,” with a gentle touch on that specific area; reward your dog with a treat during or immediately after giving the cue and handling the area. Go slowly: If your dog is sensitive in an area like the paws, start by touching him on an area where he is less sensitive, like his shoulder, and gradually move toward the paw. Continue training only while he is relaxed and receptive. '

Make the groomer’s a happy place to visit. Ask your groomer if it’s possible to do a training visit without any grooming being done. Instead, pair being in the parking lot or lobby with events your dog likes, such as play, treat training or going on a walk. If possible, ask staff to practice the handling you’ve trained and following up with rewards. Use the visit to accustom your dog to the sights and sounds of the groomer, including the noise of clippers or dryers, and to practice being lifted on and off the grooming table. Be sure to follow up with lots of treats, so that your dog learns to associate the groomer’s with good things.

Think outside the box. Identify the specific aspects of the grooming experience that make your doguncomfortable and look for alternatives. For instance, if your dog is frightened when he’s lifted onto the grooming table, look for options, like ramps or stairs, that let him climb up on his own. If he dislikes the slippery surface of the grooming table, place towels or antislip mats under him. Facial wipes or lightly dampened cloths can be used for dogs who dislike running water near their heads. Products like Scaredy Cut Silent Pet Clippers, Mutt Muffs or the Happy Hoodie can help dogs who are sensitive to sound, while aThunder Cap can decrease visual stimuli. Even small changes like increasing the frequency of treats or adjusting the temperature of the bathwater can help reduce your dog’s stress levels tremendously.

Consider a muzzle. A muzzle can make grooming easier and safer for your dog and for the groomer, especially if your dog is already difficult to handle and has needed extra restraint or muzzling in the past. Muzzle training can reduce the need for other types of restraint and can protect your pet against the implications of a bite. Train your dog to willingly put his nose into the muzzle by smearing a soft treat, like peanut butter, on the inside. I prefer to use a basket muzzle with small openings; this allows the dog to take treats while wearing the muzzle, which can also help keep the dog calm.

These strategies may not work for every dog. If training is failing to make a dent in your dog’s anxiety levels, or if your dog is reacting aggressively to any attempts to groom him, seek your veterinarian’s guidance about professional training. Talk to your vet as well about possible medication options to help manage your dog’s grooming anxiety.

Grooming - ears

Ear Grooming
(Dog Breed Info)

To clean the ears, pour ear cleaner in each ear, give them a good ear massage, and then let them shake (repeat if anything yucky is in the ears). If there is any heavy secretion call your vet. A dog’s ears should be like a human’s ears, clean and free of secretion and odor. Clean with a drying agent after each bath, in case you have gotten water in the ears. This helps to dry it up. Try not to get dirty bath water in the ears. Always rinse the head area with clean running water. If the head is heavily soiled, pinch the ears shut while rinsing off the dirt, or put cotton balls in each ear. You do not want dirt running into the ears.

First put dog on your lap in a comfy position, and pet him or her to get her calm. Then lift the ear and fold back.

Pluck excess hair from the ears using your fingers or tool shown below.

First put dog on your lap in a comfy position, and pet him or her to get her calm. Then lift the ear and fold back.

Pluck excess hair from the ears using your fingers or this tool.

Every few months or so, the tuffs of hair that grow inside the ear must be removed by plucking a few at a time. Be gentle so as not to hurt your dog, and never pull large clumps of hair. The trick is to pull as few as possible at a time, so you do not hurt your dog. Use your fingers or even surgeon forceps.
  

MistyTrails Little Misty, daughter of Belle

For dogs with long ears, like Bloodhounds, where the ears come past the tip of the nose, remember to regularly clean their ear tipsafter each meal, as their ears usually swim in the food bowl and get soiled with dog food.

When putting the ear wash in these big dogs’ ears, get in right inside and give them a REAL GOOD massage, then they will SHAKE their head and if there is any debris in the ear it should come flying out. The key is to avoid debris.

Grooming - eyelashes

How to Trim My Dog's Eyelashes
( J. Taylor Ludwig, eHow Contributor , last updated March 08, 2013)

Certain breeds of dogs have wild, unruly eyebrows and eyelashes that you must trim occasionally if you want your dog to look like a show dog rather than a street mongrel. Schnauzers are especially known for fast growing eyebrows, as are some Yorkshire Terriers and Cocker Spaniels. You must be very careful when trimming your dog's eyelashes not to accidentally poke the dog in the eye with the scissors. Depending on your dog's temperament, the procedure can go quickly and smoothly or take over an hour.

Things You'll Need

  • Assistant

  • Harness or leash (optional)

  • Eyebrow comb

Instructions
    • Ask someone to hold the dog for you during the trimming process if the dog is uncooperative. Otherwise, put a harness or a leash on the dog so that you can hold him steady while you trim the lashes.
    • Separate the lashes by combing them forward with a small eyebrow comb. Do this slowly and gently to avoid hurting the dog or pulling eyelashes out.
    • Cut the eyelashes at an angle from the outside corner of the eye in towards the nose with a small pair of scissors. If the dog moves at all, immediately back off from the eye with the scissors. Make sure the dog's face is steady before proceeding to trim the eyelashes.
    • Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the eyelashes on the other eye.
    • Examine both eyes to make sure the eyelashes are even. If not, continue to trim until the eyelashes of both eyes are even.
    • Comb the eyelashes again with the eyebrow comb to separate the lashes.

Tips & Warnings

  • Eyelashes help to protect your dog’s eyes from dirt and debris. Do not trim them unless it is absolutely necessary for the dog to see better or to show the dog.


  • You can purchase eyebrow combs, trimming scissors and other grooming supplies at most pet stores.


  • Be extremely careful when using scissors around your dog’s eyes. One slip with the scissors, and you could blind the dog. If you accidentally poke the dog in the eye with the scissors, take the dog to the vet immediately.

Read more:http://www.ehow.com/how_5810969_trim-dog_s-eyelashes.html#ixzz2t2D7FFol

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Grooming - feet

Paw Care: Taking Care of Your Dogs Feet
(Brandy Arnold in Staying Healthy31  - Dogington Post)

Yes, your dog’s feet are made for walking, but did you know that those little paws are also designed for protecting? Your dog’s foot pads give additional cushioning that aid in protecting both bones and joints from shock. They provide good insulation against intense weather conditions, and help your dog to walk over rough ground. Plus, pads support the tissue beneath their paw.

With all the work he has to do, it is not surprising that your pooch’s tiny paws take a slight beating every so often. With the paw care guidelines below; you can keep a spring in your darling dog’s step.

How to Care for Your Dog’s Paws

1. Try pampering your dog’s paws with pedicures.
His nails need to touch slightly just above the ground when he walks. If his nails tend to click or get snagged over the floor, then give him a pedicure. Talk to your vet or a professional pet groomer for advice regarding the types of nail trimmers that would seem best for your pet, and how to properly use them.

2. Do the snip and trim.
Try trimming the hairs on your dog’s paw on a regular basis to keep him from painful matting. Comb his hair out especially those from between the toes. Trim even with his pads.

3. Explore in between.
Because foreign objects could easily become lodged in your pet’s pads, do not forget to clean them. Check between his toes for pebbles, foxtails, bits of broken glass, and other debris. All these pesky items can be easily removed with the use of a pair of tweezers.

4. Moisturize, moisturize, and then moisturize.
Your dog’s pads can easily get dry and cracked so ask your vet about good pad moisturizers. Use the lotion as directed. Do not apply hand moisturizers for human as it could soften the dog’s pads; thereby, possibly lead to unwarranted injury.

5. Give your pet a soothing deep paw massage.
Just like giving someone a hand massage, a paw massage will also help in relaxing your dog; thus, promote better blood circulation. Rub between the pads at the bottom of his paw, and then rub between each of his toe. Your pooch will certainly be forever grateful for that extra TLC.

6. Take it slow and steady.
If you intend to start a new exercise plan for your dog, start off slowly. Paws are likely to be sensitive, cracked or chaffed, especially when taking your dog out for hikes and runs.

7. Use  first aid.
Because it is not unusual for your dog to acquire cuts or suffer from other wounds due to accidentally stepping on broken glass or other debris, make sure that you also have in your cabinet that first aid kit. Small wounds can be readily cleaned using an antibacterial wash and then wrapped with a bandage. Deeper cuts, however, would require seeing your vet for treatment.

8. Help him deal with summertime sores.
Have you tried stepping barefoot onto a very hot pavement? Ouch! Well, that pricking pain of extreme heat can also be felt by your dog. To keep him from acquiring burns and blisters, steer him away from hot pavements and sand.

9. Muddle through wintertime blues. 
Bitter cold is definitely hard on everyone’s skin. Your dog is certainly not exempt. After outdoor walks, make sure that you have washed your dog’s paws with warm water so that salt and other harmful chemicals are rinsed away. To keep his pads from getting chapped or cracked, apply Vaseline which is an excellent salt barrier. Letting your pooch wear doggie boots might be advisable.

Grooming - nails

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Grooming - mats

Hair Mats in Dogs
(Dr. Jon - Pet Place)

Removing hair mats is fraught with potential complications. Many mats are firmly attached to the skin, so you must be extremely careful not to cut the skin as you cut off the mat. 

Many small mats can be removed with a thorough brushing. If mats remain, try to make the mat smaller by brushing the hair near the mat.

Once you are sure that the mat can only be removed by cutting the hair, then go for the scissors. Clippers are the safest and best way to remove matted hair.

Unfortunately, most people do not own clippers and must make do with scissors. Be very careful. For severely matted pets, it is easier and safer to see a groomer for professional help.


Grooming - tear stains

Tear Stains
Tips to help prevent tear stains...

**Puppies usually have more 'Tears' around teething time**

1. Give Filtered/Bottled/cooled boiled water to drink (instead of tap water)
2. Feed a good quality Dog food ... (some wet dog foods can cause staining)
3. Add a teaspoon of Natural Live Bio Yoghurt to each meal.
4. Clean face/eyes at least once a day with non perfumed wipes
5. Stainless steel/Ceramic bowls are best (no plastic)
6. Add Apple Cider Vinegar to food or water (see link on miscellaneous page)
7. Herbal pet Supplies :https://www.facebook.com/groups/370396733030723/?fref=ts
EPIPTHOREA EYE CREAM - to unblock lower ducts that cause tear staining, to encourage upper lid to produce tears if suffering from dry eyes, to releive symptons of cherry eye, also can be used to apply to the tear stains, massage into stain every day, a good all round cream to sooth eye problems £15 for a 150ml , 250ml £22
8. Dog's Stuff Kleen Face9. Spa Lavish Blueberry Facial Scrub for Dogs
This mild yet concentrated, lightly foaming facial cleanser soothes and balances. It has natural exfoliating activity and is slightly hydrating. The refreshing blend of vanilla and blueberry effectively removes dirt and tear stains, and will not sting eyes. Great for all skin types and pets of all ages.
9. Eye Envy
10. Coconut Oil - not all coconut oil is the same. to obtain best results, it needs to be USDA-organic 100% virgin coconut oil. There are a few different brands out available, however some use the Cocotherapy brand.
11. Tearlax
12. A Veterinary Guide to Tear Stains (www.leospetcare.com)

Angel Eyes (an antibiotic, use as last resort)
If the dog is not a show dog being actively shown, it is not recommended to use antibiotics to keep it tear stain free. Long term antibiotic use is not dangerous per se, but if given in too small of doses to kill bacteria, it can create bacteria that is resistant to that antibiotic. It also will affect intenstinal flora and good bacteria, therefore you can get digestive upsets. If you are going to use it, I would recommend a probiotic to help keep the gut colonized with good bacteria as well. If you want other options without antibiotics, there are some out there, from topicals applied daily, and some people have had success with adding apple cider vinegar to water.
FDA Issues Warning Letters for Unapproved Tear Stain Removers Used in Dogs and Cats
http://www.petfoodrecall.org/2014/08/fda-issues-warning-letters-unapproved-tear-stain-removers-used-dogs-cats/

The Hidden Message Behind Your Pet's Tear Stains
(Dr Becker - Healthy Pets)

In August of this year, the FDA sent a letter of warning to three manufacturers of tearstain removal products.1 The reason? They contain the antibiotic tylosin tartrate, which is not approved for use in dogs or cats, or for the treatment of tearstain-related conditions.

The companies receiving the letters included the makers of Angels’ Eyes, Angels’ Glow, Pets’ Spark, and two exported products, Glow Groom and Health Glow. One or more of these products may be familiar to you if you’ve ever had a pet with tear staining – though you may not have been aware they contain an antibiotic.


The FDA has warned that if the products remain on the market, the agency may seize them or file an injunction against the manufacturers. Tylosin tartrate is approved by the FDA for use in livestock, but not in dogs and cats except when prescribed by a veterinarian. I think this is a good move (which is not a blanket endorsement of the FDA, by the way). I can’t imagine how these over-the-counter products containing tylosin tartrate have been sold under the radar for so long, especially since it is widely acknowledged that antibiotics are overused in the U.S., and antibiotic-resistant bacteria is a serious public health concern.

The company that makes Glow Groom and Health Glow actually admitted to FDA inspectors that they do not list tylosin tartrate on the labels of their exported products to avoid detection by customs in the countries receiving them.2

Tear Staining: What Is It? What Causes It?
Tear staining is usually caused by epiphora, which is the technical word for excessive tear production. The tearstains themselves are reddish-brown streaks under a dog’s (or cat’s) eyes. The condition is much more prevalent in certain breeds (for example, the Maltese, the Lhasa Apso, and the Shih Tzu), and is much more obvious in animals with light-colored coats. While tear staining is typically no more than a minor annoyance, it can also be a symptom of a serious eye health problem.

Medical causes of tear staining can include:
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If you have a dog or cat with tear staining, I recommend talking about it with your veterinarian at your next appointment. It’s important to rule out medical causes before you assume it’s a simple matter of too much tear production.

Why Some Pets Have or Show More Tear Staining
Tearstains are typically the result of porphyrins. Porphyrins are naturally occurring molecules containing iron – waste products from the breakdown of red blood cells -- and are mostly removed from the body in the usual way (in poop). However, in dogs and cats, porphyrin can also be excreted through tears, saliva, and urine.

When tears and saliva containing porphyrins sit on light-colored fur for any period of time, staining will occur. And if it seems your pet’s tearstains are worse after he’s been outside, you’re not imagining things. The iron-containing stains do indeed darken when exposed to sunlight.

Now, if the stains are more of a brown color than rust colored, it’s likely your pet has developed a yeast infection on her face because the fur under her eyes is constantly wet with tears. Brown stains from a yeast infection are different from red staining caused by porphyrins. This can be important to know if you’re trying to resolve brown stains with a product intended for red stains, or vice versa. Yeast infections are also odiferous, so if your pet’s face smells, think yeast. Pets can also have both a porphyrin stained face and a secondary yeast infection from the constantly moist skin.

To confuse matters further, currently, we can only guess at why some dogs make more porphyrin than others (and therefore have more tear staining). We can assume genetics and innate bacterial levels are involved, because certain breeds and lineages can be more prone to staining. But I have seen excessive porphyrin production in incredibly healthy animals eating a clean diet of organic, fresh food with no environmental toxin exposure (including vaccines). And I have seen the same amount of porphyrins in very unhealthy animals that I know are eating toxic food and living in toxic environments.

How to Treat Tearstains Safely
You can do a lot to control your pet’s tear staining by keeping his face meticulously clean and free of porphyrin-containing moisture. This means gently wiping his face at least twice a day with a soft, warm, damp cloth, keeping his face hair trimmed, and if necessary, making regular appointments with a groomer.

Other suggestions:
  • Feed a high-quality, balanced, species-appropriate diet. The less unnecessary, indigestible stuff your pet’s body has to deal with, the less stress on her organs of detoxification.
  • Provide your pet with fresh, filtered drinking water instead of tap water, which is often high in mineral content or iron and other impurities, including chlorine and fluoride, which are toxic to pets.
  • Replace plastic food and water bowls with stainless steel, porcelain, or glass. Worn plastic containers can harbor bacteria that may irritate your pet’s face.
  • I have used milk thistle, dandelion, olive leaf, chlorophyll, colostrum, and probiotics successfully to decrease the amount of staining in my patients.
  • Clean your pet’s face with colloidal silver, which is completely safe around the eyes. You can buy it at any health food store, in a spray or liquid dropper. Apply a little of the colloidal silver to a cotton ball and wipe your pet’s face. Colloidal silver has antimicrobial properties and will help reduce opportunistic yeast infections and moist dermatitis that can occur in the corners of your pet’s eyes.
  • HALO makes an excellent herbal eye wash for pets. If your dog or cat is prone to excessive crusting or matting in the corners of her eyes, ask your groomer to shave the hair away so you can effectively clean the skin under the eyes. Using a dab of coconut oil on the moist “tracks” of skin where tearstains accumulate can also prevent the skin from becoming irritated and inflamed. When there is a skin infection present, my local veterinary ophthalmologist recommends using a diluted organic, tear-free baby shampoo on the skin twice a day until the infection resolves.
  • Ask your holistic veterinarian for suggestions on one or several of the all-natural tearstain removal products on the market.
Things I’ve seen suggested that I do not recommend you use to treat tearstains include: Tums, topical apple cider vinegar (oral is fine), milk of magnesia, hydrogen peroxide, makeup remover, gold bond in any form (or any powder intended for humans), or corn syrup. Additionally, never use human eye drops on pets, except for basic eye saline solution with no additives.

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SHAVING YOUR PET 

One of the Most Controversial Pet Care Questions Hotly Debated by All Stakeholders
(Dr Becker - Healthy Pets)

Whether it's a good idea to shave your pet's coat (usually it's a dog we're talking about, but some people also consider shaving their cats) seems to generate quite a bit of controversy among pet owners, groomers, and even veterinarians.

Many breed-specific organizations and the ASPCA recommend against shaving. The ASPCA gives three reasons for its position:
  • Number one, your pet's coat is like the insulation in your home. Building insulation keeps the house from getting too cold in the winter, and too hot in the summer. A pet's coat does the same thing – it works not only to keep the animal warm in cold weather, but also to protect him from the effects of too much sun.
  • Number two, an animal's coat protects against sunburn and skin cancer. Pets with thin coats, or white or light-colored coats are especially vulnerable to sun damage.
  • Number three, according to the ASPCA, there are better alternatives to shaving, such as trimming and brushing your pet's coat, especially during warm weather.
Now, if you go to the ASPCA website and read their shaving article, you'll also find about two dozen pages of readers' comments for and against shaving! As I mentioned, it's a very controversial topic.

My View on the Question of 'To Shave or Not to Shave
Cats. 
I'm never in favor of shaving a cat's fur unless there's a medical reason to do so. Whether a kitty lives indoors all the time or is an indoor-outdoor cat, she needs her coat.

It's also extremely stressful for most cats to be shaved, so unless there's a medical reason for it – for example the cat can no longer groom himself because he's matted (which can be painful), or he can't keep his privates clean -- I don't recommend routinely shaving him.

Dogs.
In general, I think dogs also do best with their natural coat, as long as it's maintained in good condition. One exception would be dogs with recurrent hotspots or other dermatologic conditions. Some of these pets do better with shorter hair because their owners can manage their skin conditions more effectively.

Additionally, some dogs can't clean their private areas very well, so keeping the perianal hair trimmed away is more hygienic for these dogs. (For the record, I don't view regular trimming around a pet's private areas as being in the same category as a full body shave.)

In my opinion, double-coated breeds should never be shaved unless there's a medical reason to do so, as their undercoats act as an excellent insulator against the summer heat. It seems counterintuitive that an extra layer of fur would help a dog stay cooler, but it does. Air is a natural insulator, and air trapped between the hair follicles and hairs on your pet's body does a really efficient job of keeping body temperature in balance.

Consider Your Dog's Personality When Deciding Whether to Shave
Groomers, animal welfare workers, veterinarians like me, and many pet guardians have seen two very different scenarios play out after a dog has been shaved.

The first scenario involves a dog who has been shaved for a good reason -- for example, a raging skin infection -- who reacts badly to having all her hair removed. Collies, in particular, often behave as though someone has stripped away their superpowers. They become depressed, upset, and even sad.

The flip side of the coin is a dog that enjoys having his coat removed. After being shaved, these dogs behave as though they've been set free from some kind of hair bondage! They act happier and friskier. As the groomer wields her razor, the dog comes alive, which is a really interesting phenomenon! However, it's important to note that these dogs aren't happy because they're cooler. They simply prefer short hair just as many humans do.

I'm a fan of "puppy cuts" for these dogs, which involves removing the long, annoying hair, but stops well short of a full buzz cut.

How Much Time Your Dog Spends Outdoors Should Also Factor Into Any Shaving Decision
If your dog lives indoors in air conditioning, it doesn't really matter if she's shaved. If she likes being shaved, that's great. Dogs with responsible owners are never outside long enough to truly overheat, because their owners are right there, managing the time of day the dog goes out, her level of physical exertion, and how much direct sunlight she's exposed to.

If your dog lives inside and loves a short haircut or shave, I say honor her wishes! As long as you're a smart pet guardian, she won't get sunburned.

On the other hand, if your dog spends a lot of time outdoors – especially unsupervised – you should leave his coat at its normal length. Providing a cooling pool, plenty of shade, a fan if you can arrange it, and a constant supply of clean fresh water, and keeping him brushed and bathed regularly, is a very important part of helping your canine companion stay cool and comfortable in warm weather.


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Shedding

Why Do Dogs Shed?
(Dr. Jon - Pet Place)

Dog lovers commonly ask (usually while they're picking fur off their clothing), "Why do dogs shed? Is there a shedding season?" This question comes up so frequently and today I'd like to address it for my readers. 

Sorry to say it, but there's no way to eliminate shedding forever. Shedding is a continuous process. No matter what breed of dog you have, or how well you take care of them, shedding is a normal event in the life of a dog. You can never totally eliminate it, and it is largely influenced by daylight. That's right… daylight! There is a word for this phenomenon: photoperiod. The number of hours a dog is exposed to sunlight in a day (photoperiod) triggers the shedding process.

Indoor dogs tend to shed more consistently but in lesser amounts because artificial light inside the house creates a more consistent photoperiod. Dogs also tend to have heavier coats in the winter months than they do in the summer, so you probably notice shedding more. 

Stress and illness can cause excessive shedding as well. Loss of hair, frequently confused with shedding, is a symptom of many illnesses and a side effect of some medical treatments. A chronically ill dog that is shedding may also suffer skin lesions as well as scaling and thin or abnormally wrinkled skin.
What can you do about shedding? Providing your dog is just a normal shedding dog, here are some tips: 

1. Brush or comb your dog on a daily basis. This will help more than anything to reduce the amount of hair that you find on your clothing, furniture, and floors. 

2. Feed your dog a good-quality food. Don't skimp by feeding your dog the cheapest food you can find. A nutritious food will not only keep their fur healthy and soft and reduce shedding, but they will need to eat less to get the proper vitamins and minerals.

3. Make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise. A healthy body promotes a healthy coat. 

4. Don't let your dog get fat. Chubby dogs might seem cute, but obese dogs have difficulty grooming themselves. Keep your dog at a healthy weight for many reasons, not least of all to reduce shedding.


Tips To Slow Shedding
(Ron Miller in Skin & Coat3 - Dogington Post)

We might as well face the fact that owning a dog means you are going to have dog hair being shed all over the house. Some breeds are much worse than others, but all breeds of dogs are going shed hair to a greater or lesser degree. So what can we do to reduce this problem of your dog shedding hair?  There are certain things all dog owners can do to reduce the amount of shedding so let’s go over a few of them.

If there is one major method of cutting down on yourdog shedding hair, it is with a regular grooming schedule. A few minutes spent every day brushing the dogs coat will go a long way in reducing the hair accumulation throughout your home. Not only will there be less shedding, your dog is really going to enjoy this time you spend together if you make it a playful time. Plus this is a great time to look closely at the condition of the dogs coat and skin for any problems.

The time of year also plays into how much shedding of hair the dog does. From a heavy winter coat of hair to the summer coat you can expect heavy shedding. This is normal and will require more brushing to keep up. On the flip side, as summer progresses into the colder months of fall and winter, the shedding will reduce as the coat builds a layer of hair for keeping your pooch warm.

An excellent way to reduce the amount off shedding is by adding a good fish oil based supplement to your dog’s daily dinner. This oil is great to keep the dog’s coat looking healthy and shiny, and also is good for any dog suffering from painful joints associated with arthritis and old age.

While it may not be practical to vacuum your home every day, try to do this at least a couple times a week to keep any fallen dog hair from accumulating. You can also try vacuuming the dog but go slowly at first as some dogs will react in a negative and aggressive manner to the noise and wand being drug across their body. Other dogs actually look forward to being vacuumed, so the only way to know how your dog will take this is to give it a try and see. We have one that loves it, and one that won’t tolerate it.

One last thing, and this is concerning if you permit your dog on the furniture. If you do so, only allow him or her on one specific sofa or recliner, and cover this with a removable covering for easy washing off of the shed hair.

You can minimize the problems associated with your dog shedding hair with these simple tips, and have a more enjoyable life with your precious pooch!


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