((Mary Woodward & Susan Greenholt
Greenwood Dog Training School )
No one is going to say that housetraining a puppy is fun, but if done properly and vigilantly for a few months, the rest of your life with the dog should be accident-free. The key is your commitment to that training period!
Please also understand that any “accident” that your pup has is actually your accident. Puppies are not born knowing that they should only relieve themselves outside. Your job is to prevent them from relieving themselves inside and to reinforce them for going outside.
You will find housetraining much easier if you have the proper supplies. You will need:
Taking Your Puppy Outside
Take your young pup out frequently (at least every 2-3 hours during the day); older pups and adult dogs can go for longer periods. Go outside with your pup so that you can tell him “Go Potty” (it will come in handy later if he learns to do that on cue!) and also so that he learns that it’s okay to go in front of you. Reinforce this with praise and a treat after he is finished. If you would like to have a designated potty area, then have the pup on leash and always carry or walk him over to that spot.
Essential times are:
It’s also handy to know the signs of a puppy that needs to go out. Look for sniffing & circling. If you see that, scoop him up and take him out right away!
AND… if you are anywhere other than your own yard, be sure to clean up after your puppy. There are many products for this, but I like the DoggiPottm bags, which are biodegradable. Even more environmentally friendly would be to scoop up the piles and bring them inside to flush.
Restricting Access Inside – The Crate
A crate is the very best way to housetrain your pup. Properly used, they work wonders and will result in a better quality of life for you AND your pup!
Size – it should be just large enough for the pup to stand and lie down comfortably. Any bigger, and your pup could make a mess and then avoid it. Either have a smaller crate to use for a while or have dividers for your large crate.
Location – where you are! As a pack animal, your puppy will be stressed if separated from you. Avoid this when you can by having the crate in the room with you (especially at night). You can move a smaller crate from room to room if needed, or you might consider buying a second crate if your pup is large.
When to use – anytime you cannot supervise your pup. Puppies naturally spend most of their day napping, so don’t feel too guilty about this. Give them plenty of exercise (play) in the morning before you leave for work and they should be fine until lunchtime (If you cannot come home at lunch yourself, then hire a pet-sitter). Make the crate a comfy, safe haven for your pup. Cover the top of a wire crate with a blanket to create a den-like atmosphere and have a soft bed or blanket inside. When it’s time for your pup to go inside, always toss in a tasty treat. If you pair this with a phrase such as “in your crate!” your pup will learn to respond to that phrase. Your pup should also have something to chew while in there. We recommend natural chews such as bully sticks, pig ears, and hollow bones stuffed with treats (consider filling with cream cheese or peanut butter & freeze them – puppy lollipops!) The licking and chewing will calm your pup as well as provide important jaw exercise (which will help reduce puppy biting, too). For those time when you are home but cannot give your pup 100% of your attention, then block access to other rooms with puppy gates or try leashing your dog to you or large piece of furniture. You will still need to keep an eye on him, however! Of course, it’s fine for your pup to spend time in the crate during the day even while you are home. Just be sure he is tired from a vigorous playtime and has something good to chew in there.
IMPORTANT – always remove your dog’s collar before putting him in his crate to prevent it from getting caught and choking him.
…so be prepared for them. If you catch your pup in the act, then you want to startle him into stopping. A loud clap or foot stomp and a harsh “Ack!” will usually suffice (please adjust the intensity to your dog’s temperament - you want to startle, not traumatize). Then scoop him up and take him outside to hopefully finish. At first he may be nervous about finishing in front of you, but if you have spent a lot of time giving him treats and praise for going outside then this shouldn’t last long. Please think of your reaction as an interruption of an undesirable behavior, not a punishment, since a young pup is still learning what to do. Those interruptions are also useful for when your catch your pup getting into the trash, etc. Interrupt the behavior then show the pup what you would like him to do instead.
Use a non-ammonia cleaner for the mess. Urine contains ammonia, so the lingering cleaner smell could actually encourage a repeat performance in that location. Vinegar is a good cleaner, as well as Nature’s Miracle® and other similar products, which actually break down the odor molecules (get them from your pet supply store). If the accident was urine on a carpet, use cloths or paper towels to press on the wet areas. Keep pressing and replacing with dry towels until the wetness is gone. You might also consider buying a small carpet cleaner (you can use vinegar as the cleaning solution).
Accidents in the crate? Perhaps the crate is too large. If so, get a smaller one or use a divider. If the bedding is soaking up the mess, then remove the bedding for a while. Your dog will survive just fine without it and can have it back after he has learned not to mess in his crate. You may also have to remove the bedding if you find your dog entertains himself by shredding it! If that is happening, also consider increasing your pup’s exercise before bedtime and giving a better chew toy (such as a pig ear, bully stick or real bone).
If Those Accidents are Happening Often…
… then think about how you can do a better job to prevent them. Better puppy supervision and containment is usually the answer. Is your puppy slipping into another room to relieve himself? Some people mistakenly think this means the pup actually “knows better” and is being sneaky. Not so. The clever pup has just figured out that “going” in front of people is not good, while “going” somewhere private works quite well. The solution is to not allow him out of your sight, so if he starts to go inside you can stop him. Use those crates and puppy gates!
The End is in Sight!
Housetraining a puppy is a lot of work - there is no getting around that. But when you brought home a puppy you committed yourself to properly training him to live in your house. If you are consistent with your training, this phase of puppyhood should not last too long. A few months of vigilance should provide you with years of happiness with your new pet.
When to Put Away the Crate
After the housetraining phase, the crate will still remain extremely useful as a "play pen" for your pup. Until your puppy can be trusted to be loose in the house without damaging things (which is certainly destructive and can also be dangerous), then he should still be crated when you are not home. At some point (it varies by puppy) you can start testing him by leaving him loose for short periods. If all is well, then try longer times. Some people find that their pups love their cozy dens so much that they never do store the crates away - they just leave the door to it open.
Tips & Warnings
Puppy Potty Problem?
A Complete Training Schedule.....
We're having lots of problems in house training our 8-month old puppy, who insists on urinating in the house. She never eliminates in the same place. Just the other day, my husband asked her if she needed to go out to pee at least four times and even opened the door for her. She didn't want to go out but within a few minutes she came over and peed on the floor between his legs where he was sitting. Help!
It sounds as if your puppy is confused and doesn't understand what you want. There may have been some unintentional training or communication problems that contributed to the current situation. It sounds like there is an element of submissive urination going on here. Submissive urination happens because the dog is intimidated. Dogs are intimidated because they feel threatened. It may be because someone yelled at them or punished them in some way previously. Your puppy is also confused about where she's supposed to “go” and she never learned NOT to eliminate in the house. Perhaps she has a little too much freedom.
Set a schedule so she learns there are definite times she will be taken out. This will actually ease things for you as well! This schedule will be maintained for the rest of her life. After the age of 7 months of so, she should only need to eliminate four times a day. These times would be: first thing in the morning, after breakfast, after dinner, and just before bed.
Most puppies up to the age of 3 months need to be taken out 8 to10 times per day, especially after eating, playing and sleeping. A puppy's ability to “hold it” during the day relates to his age and activity.
Dogs hate to soil their own area: This includes the area the puppy sleeps in as well as any other area in which she is left alone. If you leave your dog in a kennel, it should be large enough for her to comfortably stand and move around but not too large. If the area is too big, the puppy will go to the furthest area from the sleeping and eating area in the crate and eliminate.
(Be sure you've acclimated your puppy to the crate, see below)
If you are housebreaking an older dog, do not put him in a kennel if he has not been acclimated to it. (Read The Dog Whisperer Book to learn how to acclimate your dog). Use baby gates and install them in your bedroom or kitchen area instead. Over time, you can get almost any dog use to a kennel.
For a newly adopted pup that is 7 to10 weeks old, or one that hasn't adjusted to a schedule yet, set your alarm to wake up in four hours the first night and take her to urinate. Add 15 minutes every two days to gradually increase your pup's muscle control. Some young puppies can “hold it” for seven or eight hours already, in which case this night-time routine can be omitted. It's important to provide the correct opportunities for the puppy to eliminate and avoid the chance he or she might eliminate in the kennel!
Crate (Kennel) Training
with Paul Owens
with Paul Owens
House Training Rules
Here are a few rules:
Here's the training procedure for house training:
with Victoria Schade
It's important to remember that dogs have a less than two to four second window in which they make associations. In other words, you must catch your dog in the act. Interrupt the behavior as it is happening indoors with an “Uh oh!” or “Oh no!” and quickly escort her out. Once outside, immediately begin to gently encourage her to eliminate.
Many people think that their dog “knows” she has done something wrong because “she acts guilty,” and they put their dog's nose in the elimination and say “bad dog.” In reality, the dog has indeed made an association, but the association has to do with pee or poop being linked to something bad happening to her. But she has no idea who the pee or poop belongs to! So either catch your dog “in the act” or forget about it. Some trainers also suggest you clean up the pee or poop out of sight of the dog.
Never hit, kick, jerk, shake, shock, hang, swat with a newspaper, roll over or pin to the ground or pinch your puppy. A puppy is a baby and should be treated with love, compassion, and understanding.
Never call your dog to you and then do something negative. For example, if your dog does not like being put in her sleeping area, do not call her into the house and then put her immediately in her sleeping area. (In her mind this would be punishment for coming when called.) Instead, play with her a short time and then put her in the sleeping area.
If your dog doesn't like going on wet grass or if you are having problems, call a professional dog trainer who uses only positive training methods. Call a vet as well to determine if there are any physiological issues contributing to the problem.
Here's a suggested daily routine.
Select the parts that are realistic for you and your family and try your best to be consistent.
A daily routine is very helpful in helping a dog develop a sense of security and confidence AND it is great for house training! Here is a sample of what you might try with your dog.
7 AM- 8 AM
Take Sparky out of his kennel. Have him lie down or sit before opening the kennel. (The reward is the door opening.) Say “OK” before releasing him. Begin by asking for a 1 second sit or down and gradually increase the time… he must hold the position before you open the door.
12 PM-1 PM
Rest time. If your dog is left alone for long periods of time, consider having a dog walker visit.
5 PM- 6 PM
Technorati Tags: crate training,kennel training,puppy potty training,housebreaking dog,house training puppy,dog and puppy training,paul owens,dog whisperer,dogwhispererFlickr Tags: puppy potty training,dog puppy house training,dog whisperer,crate training,kennel training Posted by Original DogWhisperer Labels: Potty Training Dog Puppy
Poochie Bells: Dog Potty Training
Hang PoochieBells inside the house on a doorknob or hook next to the door your dog exits to go out and leave it there so it is accessible at all times for your dog to ring.
Associate and Be Clear
Every time you let your dog out to potty, bring the dog to the bells to sniff, ring them, and state a command such as“Outside, ring your bells!”, praise the dog, then take him/her out to potty. We do not recommend playing with or giving the dog a treat at that time. You want him/her to associate ringing the bells with potty time only.
Praise and Repeat
Throughout conditioning, continue your command, be consistent and praise your dog for their attention and wanted behavior. Consistency is key.
How to Potty Train Your Puppy Using a Bell
(Flickety, Travis Derouin, Ch00ey, Maluniu and 16 others - Wikihow)
Teaching your puppy to use a bell to tell you when he needs to eliminate saves lots of time, energyand stress compared to other forms of housebreaking. It also provides experience training your dog in the early stages of development.
Hang a bell on the door leading to the outside of your house. Using a hook or tack, hang it on the door jam closest to the opening side and low enough for your puppy to reach with his paw and nose. Bells can also be hung from the doorknob using a shoelace or string.
potty in Snow
How to Train Your Dog to Go Potty in the Snow
(Mikkel Becker - Vetstreet)
Forget yellow snow. Dogs are notorious for doing their duty inside the house rather than outside when it’s snowing. This holds true for previously potty-trained pooches as well as puppies in training. And who can blame them? Dogs are smart — they would much rather do their duty inside where it’s warm. In addition, when it’s freezing outdoors, the ground is uncomfortable and unsteady, the air is cold and favorite potty spots in the grass or garden may be covered with snow.
Whether your dog is a puppy or an adult, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution to pottying in the snow, but I’ve found some useful strategies that work with most dogs. It may take a combination of two or three of these to solve the problem and get your dog pottying outside in the cold, but the right combination of approaches can put an end to indoor winter accidents.
How to Get Your Dog to Do His Business in the Snow
Create an ideal potty area.
If your dog dislikes walking on snow or if his regular potty site is buried in the white stuff, you can help by shoveling a spot to potty. Clear a space in your dog’s regular potty area as close to the ground as possible and large enough for him to sniff and turn around. The smells of previous bathroom breaks serve as a green light for your dog to do his business in this space, and uncovered ground allows him to navigate without his paws slipping or freezing. If you’re unable to shovel, place potty grass outdoors in a covered space near your dog’s regular potty area. Placing the potty grass outdoors rather than using potty pads inside the house can help the transition back to pottying in the normal outdoor area once the weather warms up.
You know that you will need to dress warmly when you go outside, but don’t forget to keep yourdog warm for potty breaks, too. Canines who lack the Malamute coat may need extra layers to stay cozy. MyPug, Willy, needs warm sweaters (sometimes worn in layers) to go outside without shivering. He also feels more comfortable with a pair of doggy boots on his paws. Be sure that sweaters or jackets fit well enough that your dog can potty without soiling his clothing.
Make pottying outdoors fun.
Take your dog out regularly, such as once every one to two hours during waking hours, to give him an opportunity to eliminate in a proper area. When he potties, have a celebration: Reward him with his favorite treats or a special toy and ample praise. Some dogs prefer to play and walk outside after pottying, but others feel more comfortable heading right back inside after they finish up. Do whatever works with your pooch to generate an enthusiastic response when it’s time to go outside.
Create an indoor doggy area.
There are certain circumstances where it’s easier to train a dog to go indoors — for example, in dangerously bad weather, like we’ve seen in some places this winter. For dogs who simply hate the snow or being cold or for pet owners who are at risk for a serious fall, it may be safer and more convenient to train the dog to use a mat, litterbox or grass-covered pet area in the home. Willy was originally litterbox-trained in addition to his outdoor training; this sped up the potty-training process and reduced the number of indoor accidents. Be aware, though, that training a pet to potty in an indoor area can make the transition to pottying outside more challenging
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