Seven pet food ingredients to avoid
(The Dog Market)
Your pets are members of your family and you want to give them the best nutrition available. To do this, you need to know which foods are best for pets and which ones are problematic. Like humans, pets do best when they eat a varied natural diet comprised of foods that are fresh, unprocessed and free of the questionable or dangerous ingredients discussed below.
Byproducts, like chicken and beef byproducts, are clean animal parts that are not meat. While carnivores like cats and dogs do eat feathers, skin, blood, organs, bones and other parts of carcasses, these are secondary to the healthy mass of the prey animal. Byproducts in cat or dog food consist of the parts of slaughtered animals that have no other commercial value and because of this they are typically used in inappropriate ratios. Adding byproducts is a low-cost way for producers to boost the protein content of foods, but the protein contained in most batches of byproducts is not readily digestible.
Dyes in pet foods make these foods more attractive to people. They do not, however, benefit dogs or cats, so their presence does nothing but expose pets to unnecessary and potentially dangerous chemicals. Some common dyes used in pet foods include the following:
Foods made with natural, high-quality ingredients taste good. Foods that are low-quality or highly processed are unappetizing, so many companies add flavourings to their products to make them appealing to dogs and cats. These flavourings often provide empty calories, and some of them are potentially dangerous to pets. Some common flavourings used in pet foods include the following:
Dog and cat foods should be high in protein and low in carbohydrates because dogs and cats are carnivores. Pet foods that are high in carbohydrates or contain any high-glycemic carbohydrates should be avoided. High-glycemic carbohydrates such as corn cause blood sugar to spike and are associated with obesity and diabetes.
The healthiest foods are fresh or preserved in a manner like freeze drying that allows them to retain their nutritional properties without the addition of unnecessary chemicals. Some common chemical preservatives used in pet foods include the following:
Meat Not Fit for Human Consumption
Pet food companies can include processed meat that would not be suitable for humans in cat and dog diets. This meat can come from diseased and/or disabled animals, animals that died before slaughter, cancerous tissue, spoiled carcasses, euthanized animals, road kill and animal species not typically used as food. To avoid this type of meat, feed only pet foods from companies that use human-grade ingredients and have specific types of meat listed on their labels. The following ingredients are examples of products that contain meat and other animal products from questionable sources:
In general, if you cannot pronounce it or need a chemistry book to figure out what it is, it should not be in your pet’s food. Many common chemicals used in foods are potentially dangerous to people and pets and have no nutritional value. Others are vitamin or mineral supplements that are added to foods because many commercial diets, unlike whole-prey diets, are unbalanced without supplementation. If you have any more questions about the ingredients in pet food, please give us a call or come by our shop. We’re happy to share our expertise with you.
- See more at: http://www.thedogmarket.ca/the-latest-scoop/pet-food-ingredients-avoid-2#sthash.cz0xLgxZ.dpuf
Summertime Pet Poisoning Hazards
Quick Tips from a Veterinarian on Keeping Pets Safe
Dr. Justine Lee, a veterinary emergency critical care specialist and the associate director of Veterinary Services at Pet Poison Helpline, warns pet owners about several overlooked toxins that can threaten the lives of our four-legged companions.
Salt Water Toxicity
If your dog loves to play on the ocean beach, heed caution. Dogs don’t realize that salt water is dangerous, and excessive intake can result in severe hypernatremia, or salt poisoning. While initial signs of hypernatremia include vomiting and diarrhea, salt poisoning can progress quickly to neurologic signs like incoordination, seizures, progressive depression, and ultimately, severe brain swelling. Hypernatremia needs to be treated very carefully with IV fluids by your veterinarian. Help avoid the problem by carrying a fresh bottle of tap water and offering it to your dog frequently while he’s frolicking on the beach.
If you own a pool or hobby pond, make sure to keep those pool chemicals away! Algaecides and chlorine shock water treatment products are generally safe once these chemicals are diluted appropriately. However, many of the undiluted pool chemicals (like chlorine bleach tablets, etc.) are corrosive (as they are bleach derivatives), and if ingested directly from the bucket or in tablet form, can result in severe ulcers in the mouth, esophagus, and stomach, resulting in life-threatening punctures of the GI tract. When in doubt, make sure you always store your pool chemicals in a locked, secure area, and never leave open containers (even for a second!) pool-side.
Believe it or not, but sunscreen can be toxic to your pet if ingested in large amounts. Sunscreens contain a few potentially dangerous chemicals: PABA, zinc oxide, salicylic acid (aspirin), and laxatives. Massive PABA ingestion can result in severe gastroenteritis (an inflammation of the stomach and intestines), bone marrow changes, and even liver damage. Zinc oxide generally just causes a mild gastroenteritis, resulting in vomiting, nausea, or diarrhea. Large amounts of salicylic acid can result in gastric ulcers, and in high doses, even kidney failure. Sunscreen may also have an inadvertent laxative effect also, resulting in diarrhea.
Thankfully, this is pretty rare because pets have to ingest large bottles of sunscreen before it’s an issue. Remember that if you apply sunscreen to your pet, he’ll likely just lick it off. In general, I don’t normally recommend sunscreen unless you have a white dog with a pink nose, live in a high elevation in constant sunshine (like Colorado!), house your dog outdoors most of the time, or if your dog has an underlying medical problem (like pemphigus, lupus, dermatitis, etc.). If you need to use it, purchase a child-safe sunscreen and consult your veterinarian.
Flea and Tick Medications
During the spring and summer, flea and tick infestation is at its peak! Make sure your pets are protected with an adequate, safe, preventative flea and tick medication to avoid that itchy, uncomfortable feeling of bites, flea allergy dermatitis, or even tick-borne diseases like Lyme disease, Ehrlichia, Anaplasma, or Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Nowadays, there are multiple different options for insect preventives: from oral pills to topical spot-on treatments (both prescription and over-the-counter). Most of these types are either an adulticide (killing adult fleas and ticks) or an insect growth regulator (birth control for flea eggs, preventing them from developing into adults). When in doubt, contact your veterinarian about the best type of medication for your pet; the safest types of preventative are often by prescription only.
Keep in mind that some dogs have sensitivities to certain types, and others can cause severe adverse reactions if not applied appropriately. Most importantly, if you’re a cat owner, read the label carefully! Some of these preventives contain pyrethrins or pyrethroids (a chemical derivative of the natural Chrysanthemum flower), which are severely toxic to cats when misapplied. Even the accidental application of a dog flea product to a cat can result in severe symptoms like seizures, tremors, and life-threatening reactions!
Stings and Insect Bites
If you’re going camping in a mosquito-infested area, consider using a flea and tick preventive that gets mosquitoes too. Only Advantix (Bayer Animal Health) works for mosquitoes, because of the pyrethrin – which again, should never be used on cats! You can also consider using low-concentration DEET is severe situations (like OFF®or Skintastic®).
For you cat owners, be safe and don’t use anything – mosquitoes can’t usually get through that thick kitty fur coat, and it’s rare for cats to get Lyme disease (likely because cats are such fastidious groomers that ticks get groomed off, swallowed and pooped out shortly thereafter). Besides, cats are so sensitive to any kind of chemical or drug due to their altered liver (glutathione metabolism), so always check with a veterinarian before using any product on a cat! If you do notice an attached tick, simply get a pair of tweezers and firmly grasp near the base (head of the tick) and pull it off in one swipe.
More severe bites include snake bites and scorpion bites. Depending on where you live, your curious dog may get bitten on the nose when he harasses a rattlesnake. When in doubt, keep your dog supervised closely on a leash so you can avoid the bite to begin with. If your dog does get bitten by a snake, don’t attempt any first aid yourself – no tourniquets, no ice, no lancing of the wound and sucking out the venom – none of these are beneficial and can make your pet worse! Seek veterinary attention immediately or call Pet Poison Helpline for advice on how to best treat these bad bites.
The best thing any pet owner can do is to be educated on the summertime toxins that are out there - that way you can make sure to pet proof your house appropriately. Make sure to have fresh water available for your pet at all times; to keep all chemicals and household products in labeled, tightly-sealed containers out of your pet’s reach; to read flea and tick preventative labels appropriately, and to consult your vet whenever starting new medications. When in doubt, please call Pet Poison Helpline* at 1-800-213-6680 with any questions or concerns if you’re worried that your pet could have inadvertently gotten into anything this summer!
*A fee is billed by Pet Poison Helpline. PPH is not affiliated with VPI Pet Insurance.
Five Dog Myths Debunked
(VETDEPOT on JUNE 11, 2014)
When it comes to dogs, there is a lot of information out there. Some of it is true, and some of it is downright false. Below are five common misconceptions people have about dogs:
1. Old dogs can’t learn new ticks.
False! Mature dogs not only can learn new things, they often excel at training. Once out of the puppy stage, attention spans tend to get longer and housebreaking typically goes quicker. As long as a dog is physically and mentally able to do what is being asked, old dogs can certainly pick up new tricks.
2. Shelter dogs have too much baggage.
So false! Dogs end up in shelters for a long list of reasons, most of which have nothing to do with the animal. These dogs are simply in need of a loving home where they can thrive.
3. Dogs shouldn’t be allowed on the furniture, or they will think they’re in charge.
Whether a dog is allowed on the furniture or not is absolutely up to the owner. However, there is a misconception about the link between bad behavior and being allowed up on the couch. Like people, dogs just like to rest where it’s comfortable. They’re not going to think they own the house just because they’re allowed to snooze next to their owner in bed.
4. Dogs must enjoy the company of other dogs, otherwise there’s something wrong.
While it’s ideal to get your dog as socialized as possible to avoid fear and aggression issues, not every dog is going to be a social butterfly. Not every canine is cut out for the dog park, and that’s okay.
5. Dogs chew or destroy things to get back at their owners.
Not true! Most of the time, dogs chew on things like shoes or furniture because they’re bored or it feels good for their teeth. Sometimes, this behavior is related to separation anxiety, but dogs aren’t intentionally trying to get back at their owners.
- See more at: http://blog.vetdepot.com/five-dog-myths-debunked#sthash.7EUyrbyX.dpuf
Dog Food Recalls
(Dog Food Advisor)
View This List Sorted by Date
Why I Don’t Recommend Retractable Leashes
(Healthy Pets - Dr. Becker)
A retractable leash is not so much a leash as it is a length of thin cord wound around a spring-loaded device housed inside a plastic handle. The handles of most retractable leashes are designed to fit comfortably in a human hand. A button on the handle controls how much of the cord is extended.
Retractable leashes are popular primarily because they aren't as confining as regular leashes, allowing dogs more freedom to sniff and poke around on walks. But unfortunately, there are many downsides to this type of leash.
10 Reasons Not to Use a Retractable Leash
Poisonous Plants and Foods for Dogs
The prospective dog owner plans ahead for their new dog. The seasoned dog owner knows that not everything can be planned for. But it is possible to plan ahead for a very serious and common emergency - poisonous hazards for dogs.
There are many toxic foods and plants for dogs. All of the toxins that affect dogs are too numerous to mention in an article so it is best to research anything you aren't sure about. Ask your vet or check with an animal organization like the ASPCA.
Some Inside Plants Poisonous to Dogs
Holiday Hazards For Dogs
The holidays are a very hectic time for dogs and dog owners alike and it's easy to miss some of the plants and foods poisonous to dogs specific to that time.
Though there can be signs that are specific to each toxin, the most common are:
If your dog is exhibiting any of these symptoms or even if you just suspect he ingested something toxic, call a pet poison hot line such as the ASPCA (1-888-426-4435) or the Pet Poison Hot Line (1-800-213-6680). Your local ASPCA might also have a hot line.
If possible, have someone simultaneously call your vet or the emergency vet. They can tell you what to do immediately and prepare for your immediate arrival.
There are home remedies out there such as charcoal and sodium sulfate but it is best to get professional advice before administering these.
An Ounce Of Prevention
Clean House: The first thing to do is take an inventory of all plants in your house. Remove all plants that you know are hazards for dogs as well as those that you aren't sure about. Also, check your cupboards for toxic foods and place them high up with the cupboard securely closed.
Keep a List and Check It Often: Keep a list of toxic foods and plants for dogs. Be sure to check back regularly with your vet and online sources for the most up-to-date information. Some good resources are the ASPCA, the FDA, and the Humane Society. Also, keep a list of a pet poison hotline, you vet's number and an emergency vet number by the phone at all times.
A Dog-Safe Home: It can seem daunting when you consider how many food and plant items can be hazards for dogs but with a little preparation and diligence, you can have a dog-safe house, inside and out.
Six Summertime Hazards for Dogs(Dogster - Casey Lomonaco)
Seasonal pet health hazards should be considered during the extreme temperatures of both winter and summer. Keeping pets safe during the summer is easiest if you know what the risks are and how to manage them for your dog's safety.
The dog days of summer provide lots of opportunities for fun with your dog (camping, hiking, swimming, kayaking and backpacking, to name a few) but also bring a unique set of health hazards and risks pet owners should be aware of; including, but not limited to: dehydration, burned pads, parasite infestation, heat stroke, leptospirosis, and seasonal allergies.
Six Common Summer Hazards for Dogs
One of the best ways to keep your dog safe in the summer time is by providing lots of cool, clean, fresh water. Consider preparing low sodium chicken broth or yogurt ice cubes, and introducing canned dog foods (best when frozen in a Kong!) to increase the moisture content in your dog's diet.
2. Burned Pads
Under the summer sun, asphalt on sidewalks and streets can heat to a temperature that can burn a dog's paws. To avoid scorched paws, walk your dog very early in the morning or in the late evening when the streets have cooled off. If you must walk your dog during the day, dog booties can protect his feet. Always put your hand down on the asphalt for about thirty seconds - if you must pull your hand away because the street is too hot, it is too hot for your dog to walk on without hurting his paws. If you don't want your hand on the street for thirty seconds, your dog probably does not want his paws on it for thirty or more minutes of walking.
Summer is the season for fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes; pests which can present a minor discomfort to your dog at best and at worst may be life threatening or cause self-mutilating behaviors. Feeding your dog a high quality diet, without preservatives or chemicals will build his immune system, making him generally more resistant to parasite infestation. There are a wide variety of preventatives on the market, including chemical spot-on treatments, repellent shampoos, essential oils, and flea/tick collars; talk to your vet to see what she recommends for your dog. Cleaning your house frequently and keeping your dog well groomed will also reduce the risk of parasite infestation.
4. Heat Stroke
Heat stroke is a serious risk to dog's health - in worst case scenarios, it can be fatal. You can prevent heat stroke by restricting your pet's exercise during the hottest hours of the day (early morning or late evening are the best times for exercise during the summer), by making sure he is well hydrated, providing cool places for him to relax, providing opportunities to swim, cooling mats, and by never leaving your dog unattended in the car during summer heat.
Many dogs die annually in hot cars. Even if your windows are cracked or you park in the shade, heat can build quickly in a car in the summer, turning it into an oven. If it's 95 degrees at noon and you leave your windows cracked, the temperature in your car may still rise as high as 113 degrees. This is a recipe for disaster for your dog. If you must leave your dog in the car for any period of time, the air conditioning should stay on. Leaving a dog to die in a hot car is not just a health risk for your dog, but may be cause for animal cruelty charges in some area. The solution? Don't leave your dog in a hot car.
Leptospirosis is contracted through bodily fluids or tissue and can be transmitted through direct (as in the case of a bite or ingestion of flesh) or indirect contact (through water sources, food, etc.) with an infected animal. Stagnant waters are a common source of leptospirosis bacteria. Lepto can cause permanent health problems or death if not treated quickly. Symptoms include fever, vomiting, trembling/shaking, lethargy, anorexia, tenderness of joints and muscles, and increased water intake. If you suspect your dog has lepto, get him to a vet right away, an emergency vet if need be.
There are vaccines for lepto but they do not prevent all strains and can cause significant adverse reactions. Talk to your vet about weighing the risk of infection with the risks associated with the lepto vaccine.
6. Seasonal Allergies
Your dog may be allergic to one or more seasonal items, which include fleas, grass and various plants, and mold. If you suspect your dog may have seasonal allergies, is scratching and perhaps losing fur, a visit to your vet is recommended. Here is a great website where you can learn more about the various kinds of allergies affecting dogs and treatments for canine allergies in any season.
Choosing a Puppy
(Association of Pet Dog Trainers)
Finding the right pup for and your family should be something that is done with a great deal of thought and care.
Here are a few things to think about before acquiring your puppy.
With information you have gained about the breed of your choice you should now be prepared to go and visit the breeder’s home and to ask questions. A good breeder will also want to ask you questions so that they can decide if you are suitable for their pups.
Breeders should be approachable, willing and able to give you the information you require about the puppies and their parenting. They should also be able to supply you with information on; worming, inoculations, and feeding.
If they are Kennel Club registered obtain a certificate or a written document that says they will forward it to you as soon as it is received from the Kennel Club.
Always visit the breeder’s home. Do not to have the puppy delivered because you will never really know what the mother is like in temperament nor will you know what type of environment the pup was brought up in. It is important to meet the mother of the pups and if possible the father. Visiting also means you have a chance to talk with the breeder, look at any paperwork, see how the mother is with you and the pups, how the pups are with each other and their environment.
It is not always possible to see the father because they don’t always belong to the owner of the mother. However, it is necessary to see how sociable they or at least the mother is with people. Does the mother look like the breed? Are the parents clean, healthy, and happy? Do the parents have any obvious physical, temperament, or behaviour problems? Are the parents cowering away from you, are they aggressive or do they run away from you? Are the parents barking at you? Puppies can grow up to be like their parents so if you see any of the above problems it is possible that the puppies will grow up with the same problem.
The parents of the pups should be at least 12 months of age when the puppies were conceived. The larger breeds should be at least 2 years of age, as they take longer to grow and mature. Bitches should have had at least one season before being bred from. Bitches should not be bred from after the age of 8 years and should not have produced more than 6 litters.
At 4 weeks the puppies should be weaned onto a solid diet.
Find out what food the puppy is eating.
Puppies should legally not be sold at less than 6 weeks old.
Ideally a puppy should be 8 weeks of age when they go to a new home this allows for the mother to have completed her disciplinary training of the pups such as teaching bite inhibition. This time is a very important learning time for the pups they learn how to interact and communicate with other dogs properly. However, not every mother is good at discipline and in large litters the mother can not always get around to them all so if they are left with their siblings too long some may become bullies. Therefore puppies are usually recommended for sale at 8 to 10 weeks of age.
Once the decision has been made the breeder should supply you with all the necessary paperwork and a diet sheet telling you exactly what, how much, and when the pup is fed. It is very important not to change the diet immediately as this can cause stomach upset.
Remember it will be stressful for the pup to leave its family and to go into a new home with virtual strangers. Allow your pup time to adjust to its new environment and people. Try and keep everything calm and gentle in order that every new experience for your new pup is a nice one. It is important for the puppy’s happy adjustment that the puppy’s new life is not overwhelming.
DEVELOP A GOOD PUPPPY SOCIALISATION PROGRAMME
Look at different breeds and gain some knowledge of them before making a final choice on breed or breed type.
Once breed is chosen gain more knowledge of the breed
Plan for the puppy’s arrival
a) Puppy proof any areas the pup will be allowed in e.g. make areas safe where there are electrical wires, make sure valuables are always out of reach, make garden escape and danger proof etc.
A puppy needs
b) Food – nutritionally balanced diet
e) Physical contact
f) The best of physical care
g) A calming environment
h) A good balance of mental and physical exercise
Give the puppy his own bed and a space where he can always have a quiet time and space to himself.
a) A pup must be allowed to sleep and rest
Puppies need supervised and appropriate play with children and adults in order that they do not get overexcited and wound up.
Puppies should not be over walked, too much exercise can cause stress physically and mentally on a pup.
Create a kind regime for toilet training
Do not let other dogs, children or adults harass or play roughly with the puppy
Handle puppy daily and start grooming with a soft brush in order that this will be accepted for life
Puppies need the freedom to make choices
Create an enriched environment; this helps the puppy to gain knowledge and confidence through exploration and to make their own choices. However, care must be taken that the puppy is not given too much too soon. This should be done gradually, perhaps introducing something new each day, but care must be taken not to give inappropriate experiences.
Puppies need things to chew once teething starts, make sure they always have appropriate items to chew in order to keep them from chewing your things. Also consider giving occupying toys, as these are not only great for the food reward but can be mentally stimulating.
If pup shows fear of a situation, another dog, another animal, a person or anything, do not force pup to confront it. Try not to make any soothing tones or mollycoddle the pup because this will only feed the pup’s fears. Let the pup make the decision whether to investigate or not, give praise when they do.
Pups should see different kinds of people e.g. short, tall, fat, thin, different colours, with glasses, without glasses, with and without beards or hats and be handled by different people but supervise this and make sure the pup is happy with the person and the situation – not all at once of course.
Pups should learn about different textures underfoot, different times of day, different weather, different sounds, smells, tastes, things to touch and things to see e.g. vets, towns, the countryside, people’s homes and gardens, the sea, children playing etc.
Puppies need good experiences but not too much too soon. Puppies are like sponges up to the age of 12 weeks, so care should be taken as to just what they do absorb. The puppy should not be flooded with too many new things or people at once. The pup should be made to feel comfortable with non-threatening situations.
Puppies need warmth, love, kindness, understanding, company and knowledgeable care. Puppies need good experiences in order to grow into well-balanced dogs.
Dog Food Reviews
Dog Food Advisor (http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/)
for evaluation of foods to feed your furbabies.
Dog Food Analysis (http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/)
Top Worst Dry Dog Food Brands
(Holistic And Organix Pet Shoppe
Finding the Right Dog Food: What to Avoid
( Brandy Arnold in Food Guidelines, Front Page News - Dogington Post)
Choosing the right food for your dog can be a daunting task. Many of us have found ourselves overwhelmed standing in the pet food aisle, staring down a long line of bags, boxes, and cans, all promising to provide the very best and completenutrition for our pets.
In an industry that is highly under-regulated, one that basically allows manufacturers to make whatever claims abouthealth and nutrition they want, no matter how truthful, it’s important for pet parents to take an active role, to read labels, and to do their research.
After all, unlike humans that usually have a few different meals every day, with different protein sources, and a variety of ingredients, our dogs typically eat the same food every day, at every meal. Because of this simple fact, finding food that is safe, even after months or years of daily consumption, is vitally important to their health and well-being.
The list below is hardly all-inclusive, but will point you in the right direction to find the perfect food for your furry family. When you find a pet food that leaves out these known harmful ingredients, it’s highly likely you’ve found a food that leaves out all the other junk used by the commercial pet food industry too.
Pet Food Ingredients to Avoid:
By-Products: By definition, a by-product is an incidental or secondary product made in the manufacture or synthesis of something else. In dog food, by-products can include parts of the meat protein source not normally suitable for use such as bones, skin, beaks, feet, feathers, intestines, even urine and fecal waste. Further, by-products, by law, CAN include tissue from dead, diseased, disabled, and dying animals. In the pet food industry, these are normally referred to as “The 4D’s.” By-products do not include healthy “muscle meats,” but rather, the parts normally discarded during meat processing. By nature, by-products can be high in protein and are used by many manufacturers as a cheap alternative to healthier meats.
Sugar: Sugars are a common ingredient in commercial dog food, usually disguised as sucrose, dextrose, maltodextrin, corn syrup, etc., because it makes the food tastier to a dog’s natural sweet-tooth. In addition to contributing to obesity, sugars interfere with your dog’s ability to digest protein, calcium, and other minerals and inhibits the growth of beneficial intestinal bacteria. Studies have also shown that excessive sugar intake can lead to behavioral problems.
BHA/BHT: Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) are chemical preservatives often added to pet food to lengthen their shelf life. The World Health Organization has deemed these chemicals “suspicious cancer-causing” compounds. Yet, both remain commonly used by the pet food industry to make our dog’s food last longer on the shelf. In addition to proven cancer-causing effects, BHA and BHT can cause allergic reactions, fetal abnormalities, and negatively affect kidney and liver function.
Ethoxyquin: (Also known as Santoquin) Another artificial preservative, ethoxyquin is also a pesticide. Prolonged ethoxyquin use has proven to destroy normal liver function. Although ethoxyquin is banned from use in human food, it can still be legally added to pet food. Still, due to controversy surrounding the ingredient, many pet food manufacturers don’t add the ingredient directly, but add it indirectly by using certain poultry and fish that contain it. In effect, when reading your pet food label, this ingredient may be present even when it’s not listed. Do your research and ask your manufacturer to be certain.
Sodium Nitrate: Sodium Nitrate is added to dog food to help it retain color. Since our dogs don’t see colors vividly, or make food choices based on what color they are, this ingredient is strictly used to enhance its appearance to humans. Besides being a completely unecessary ingredient in pet foods, sodium nitrates can cause cancers, severe arthritic symptoms, abnormalities of the dog’s immune system, and has even been linked to death.
Artificial Colors/Flavors: Artificial colors and flavors have both shown potential to be carcinogenic (cancer-causing). Choose foods that are naturally flavored with real, whole ingredients, without added artificial colors.
Hi, my name is Terry. I manage this website for my furbaby, Daisy. When I first became interested in the Shichons, I found it was difficult to get information on them. A few sites, I am using for information are excellent sources. Then, I moved on to compile and share more information on choosing a good breeder, grooming, health, behavior, training and much more. I hope you enjoy this site and find it helpful. I am NOT promoting any information, just sharing. You and your vet know what is best for your baby.